The Cadillac Northstar V8 engine family is General Motor's top-of-the-line luxury power plant. Introduced in 1993 in the Cadillac Allante, Eldorado and Seville STS, the 4.6L 32-valve dual overhead cam all-aluminum V8 engine was a quantum leap forward for U.S. automakers. Initially rated at 295 horsepower, the Northstar V8 has been ranked as one of the "10 Best Engines in North America" by Ward's Auto World. It also beat out both Mercedes-Benz and BMW in horsepower per liter of displacement, fuel economy and required maintenance.

GM recently unveiled its Northstar XV12 concept engine that is physically about the same size as the existing V8 but is capable of producing up to 750 horsepower! The engine uses cylinder deactivation technology to keep fuel economy manageable, but there are no productions plans yet for this exotic power plant.

Northstar Engine Features
The Northstar V8 has a die-cast aluminum block with a bottom end girdle that splits along the midline of the crankshaft bearings. This takes the place of the main bearing caps. In model year 2000, GM began using a new high pressure "squeeze" casting process for the lower crankcase to reduce porosity in the aluminum, which may allow oil to seep through and leak (this has been a problem on some engines).

The Northstar V8 is an interference engine, which means if a chain fails or is disconnected when the engine is cranked over, the valves will hit the pistons. That's something you don't want to happen with an expensive engine like this!

The intake manifold is Nylon 66 thermoplastic, which helps cool intake air by conducting less heat from the engine. Fuel delivery is by sequential fuel injection with separate injectors mounted under the engine's top cover. Under the top cover you'll also find the MAP sensor, intake air temperature sensor and fuel pressure regulator.

If the fuel pump relay fails on a Northstar V8, the engine should still run because the fuel pump also can be energized through the oil pressure sending unit.

A four-coil distributorless ignition with a waste spark set up provides spark to the plugs. Two crankshaft position sensors are used (A and B) plus a camshaft position sensor to provide timing inputs. Both crank sensors are mounted in the block and the cam sensor is located on the rear head in front of the exhaust cam. There's also a knock sensor on the rear head between cylinders 1 and 3 to retard timing if detonation becomes a problem under load.

The ignition system has two modes of operation: "module mode" and "ignition control mode." In ignition control mode, the PCM controls ignition timing using sensor inputs. If there's a problem in the PCM or with its sensor inputs, the module mode takes over and runs the engine with a fixed 10 degrees of advance. The engine continues to run (essentially a limp-in mode) but with reduced performance.

In model year 2000, the DIS ignition system was changed to a coil-on-plug design, which eliminates the spark plug wires and waste spark. Each head has its own ignition module that fits in the middle of the valve cover.

Another feature of the Northstar engines is a "limp home" mode that allows the engine to continue running if all the coolant is lost. If the PCM senses an overheating condition, it temporarily disables up to half of the cylinders. This pumps enough air though the engine to keep temperatures from getting hot enough to cause any damage. Even so, GM says the vehicle should not be driven more than 50 miles in the limp-home mode.

Another unusual feature you may see is a liquid-cooled alternator on the DeVille and Seville. Cadillacs are crammed with electrical accessories that put quite a load on the charging system, so using liquid cooling helps prolong the life of the alternator. In 2001, GM went back to an air-cooled alternator to "eliminate the coolant tubes and potential leak points."

Engine Maintenance
As for maintenance, there isn't much. One of GM's goals with the Northstar program was to reduce maintenance to a minimum. The engines are factory-equipped with 100,000-mile platinum-tipped spark plugs and five-year/150,000-mile Dex-Cool antifreeze, and use chain-driven cams to eliminate the need to replace timing belts. Except for oil and filter changes, there isn't much to maintain - unless something breaks.

The newer Northstar V8s use an "oil life monitor" light rather than a specific mileage interval or service schedule to indicate when oil changes are needed. The PCM tracks engine rpm, operating temperature, load, running time and ambient temperature to calculate oil life. Up until 1999, the maximum oil change interval under ideal conditions was 7,500 miles. In 2000, GM bumped the upper limit to 10,000 miles. In 2002, they did away with the upper limit altogether stretching the oil change interval to 12,000 miles or more, depending on operating conditions. However, GM does say the oil should be changed at least once a year regardless of mileage.

Note: When changing oil on a 4.6L Northstar V8, keep in mind that this engine holds 7.5 quarts instead of the more common 4 or 5 quarts.

We think pushing the oil change interval too far is asking for trouble. Changing the oil every 3,000 miles may be a conservative approach to engine maintenance, but considering the fact that most engines operate under less than ideal conditions, 3,000 miles is a realistic figure - especially during cold weather and for short trip, stop-and-go city driving. Oil is a lot cheaper than an engine - especially a Cadillac Northstar V8 engine.

In researching this engine, we discovered that few rebuilders are overhauling Northstar V8s - not because these engines are lasting forever (they're not) but because the Northstar V8s are such expensive and complex engines. Cadillac has no reman program for Northstar V8s (if one fails, replace it with a new one). None of the major production engine rebuilders are doing Northstar V8s, and some rebuilders told us certain critical internal parts are unavailable (such as oversize crankshaft bearings). Add to this the fact that the cylinder liners can't be replaced or overbored and it doesn't leave much to rebuild.

Even the heads are throw-aways, according to Cadillac. If the valve guides are worn, Cadillac says the cylinder heads need to be replaced. The heads have hard powder metal valve guides, but we don't see any reason why the guides can't be replaced with new ones or repaired with bronze or cast iron guide liners.

Northstar Problems & Recalls
As well-engineered as Northstar V8s are, like other engines they've had some problems. According to various sources, head gasket failures are not uncommon. Nor is oil burning or oil leaks.

Cadillac service bulletin 01-06-01-011 deals with oil burning on 1996-'99 Northstar V8s. The cure, says Cadillac, is to do a ring cleaning procedure (seems those long oil change intervals weren't such a good idea after all). Cadillac recommends using GM cleaning kit (P/N 12378545) and Kent-Moore J-45076 induction/evacuation tool to do the job. The cleaner is added into the cylinders through the spark plug holes and allowed to soak the rings for two hours. The cleaner and dissolved crud is then vacuumed out of the cylinders through the spark plug holes, followed by an oil change. Cleaning the throttle body and EGR valve is also recommended.

On 2000-'01 Northstar V8s, a buildup of carbon deposits in the combustion chamber can cause a cold knock condition. Bulletin 99-06-01-101A says to use top cleaner to remove the combustion chamber deposits.

If an engine has failed and is being rebuilt or replaced, the Engine Rebuilders Association (AERA) says the plastic intake manifold also should be replaced. The reason? Because of the complex shape of the manifold, it's impossible to tell if any engine debris has been blown back inside it. If the debris works loose and is ingested into the new engine, it will cause a repeat failure. That you don't want.

No oil pressure on a 1993-1994 engine? Debris between the oil pressure relief valve and its seat will prevent oil pressure buildup. The cure here is to clean or replace the pump (P/N 3543258), which is located on the front of the engine.

Oil leaks around the rear main crank seal have been a problem on some 1996-1999 engines, so GM has developed a new rear main oil seal (P/N 12556107) that should cure this problem. It's a press fit seal that takes a special tool (J-42482) to remove and install.

In 1995, GM revised the original crankshaft balancer to provide smoother operation and longer durability. If the balancer is removed from the crankshaft for any reason, GM recommends installing the newer, improved balancer (P/N 12552437 or 12552436, depending on the engine).

If you have to pull a cylinder head on a 1993-1999 4.0L or 4.6L Northstar V8 to replace a gasket or do a valve job, do not reuse the old 11mm head bolts. Also, GM has revised the head bolt torque values and tightening procedure as follows:

1. In sequence, torque all bolts to 30 ft.-lbs.
2. In sequence, rotate all bolts an additional 70 degrees.
3. In sequence, rotate all bolts an additional 60 degrees.
4. In sequence, rotate all bolts another 60 degrees.
5. Torque the front three M6 head bolts to 106 in.-lbs.

Because the Northstar V8s are aluminum, thread damage is not unusual. GM's recommended thread repair kit is J42385-500 for main and head bolts, and J42385-2000 for other fasteners.

Accessing Diagnostic Codes
For driveability and emissions problems, you can access trouble codes and sensor data the usual way with a scan tool, or you can read the information through the Climate Control Center. To enter the built-in diagnostic service mode, press the OFF and WARMER buttons simultaneously and hold until all the segments on the display panel light up. If there are any engine or other trouble codes in memory, they will be displayed.

On the 1993-1995 models (pre-OBD II), trouble codes have a letter prefix, three-digits followed by a "C" for current or "H" for history code. On the 1996 and newer cars with OBD II, the prefixes are somewhat different and the codes are four-digit numbers.

On the earlier cars, engine codes have an "E" prefix. On the later OBD II cars, "P" is the prefix for powertrain.

Other codes on the earlier cars include "I" for instrument panel, "A" for the A/C system, "R" for the air bag system, "T" for ABS/traction control, and "S" for the electronic suspension. On the newer OBD II cars, the prefixes are different. You'll see "IP" for the IPC instrument panel, "AC" for air conditioning module, "TC" for traction control, "RS" for the road suspension system, "SD" for the air bags, "PZ" for the body control module, plus other codes for other accessories such as "CC" for the cell phone or "RF" for the integrated radio.

If there are no engine/powertrain codes in memory, the display will read "No E Code" or "No P Code" depending on the model year.

To check for other system codes, press the WARMER button to scroll ahead (or OFF to scroll backward). If the PCM can't communicate with a particular system, the display will read "No X Data" where X represents the letter(s) of the system.

To clear an engine code, choose PCM mode after any codes have been displayed, then scroll to CLEAR CODE, press the HI button to select, then press the HI button again to erase the code(s).

To exit the service diagnostic mode, press the AUTO or DEFOG button, or simply turn the ignition off. This does not erase any codes.

There's More, Lots More...
The built-in diagnostics provides access to each of the onboard electronic systems, which you can scroll through using the LO button. To select a system, press the HI button.

If you choose the PCM mode (powertrain control module/ engine), you can again use the LO button to scroll through more display options: DATA, INPUTS, OUTPUTS, OVERRIDES, CLEAR CODES and SNAPSHOT. As before, press HI to select your choice.

Under each of these categories are quite a list of things you can look at. Under PCM data, you can look at all the various sensor inputs, short-term and long-term fuel trim, injector pulse width, engine rpm, battery voltage and PROM identification. Under PCM INPUTS, you can check switch status (throttle position switch, brake pedal switch, transmission gear switches, etc.). Use the PCM OUTPUTS mode to check the EVAP and EGR systems, torque converter clutch solenoid, A/C compressor relay and transaxle solenoids.

The OVERRIDE mode under the PCM section allows you to override the various inputs to the PCM using the WARMER button to increase the value or the COOLER button to lower the value. Overrides include the TCC solenoid (mode PS01), EGR solenoid (PS02), idle speed control motor (PS03), disable individual fuel injectors (PS04), disable fuel pump relay (PS06), cruise control servo (PS07), cooling fan relay (PS08), spark timing advance (PS09), injector flow (PS10) and transaxle shift solenoids (PS10).

All artwork courtesy of General Motors Corp.

Adapted from a post on CRXSi.com and an article written by Larry Carley for Underhood Service magazine

It cost them about the same amount of money for  the parts (NOT LABOR) to rebuild the engine as it would for them to purchase a EngineGuy 5.4L Lightning Engine shipped to their shop w/ a 12 month 12,000 mile warranty in about 3 days.

Adding the time your truck is down, the labor cost, and  the peace of mind of a warranty....it should be a no-brainer.

I will note that they bought a complete non operational junkyard engine for $1000. Ours is a longblock w/ front cover and oil pan (so you'll need the supercharger+other parts from your current engine - but if you have a Lightning, you have those parts already).

Check out his youtube channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/vipermech

Find More information here: How to Fix a Blown Head Gasket on an F-150  on eHow.com

10 Things You Never Want to Hear From a Mechanic

"Have you noticed that low-pitched knocking sound? Not good."

"Did you see all this rust when you bought the car?"

"Looks like your cat has gone bad."

"You have a short somewhere in your electrical system."

"The coolant level is fine. Your engine is cracked."

"It's not the fluid. It's the entire brake system."

"Another alignment won't help here."

"The oil change is done, but I found a lot of metal shavings in the old oil."

"I have to replace a part in your fuel tank."

"Yeah, your transmission is on the way out."

Here are a few options for a carb'd 1985 F150 302:

check out basicinstructions.net

Wow.

Reminds us of the EcoRoamer - the opensource expedition vehicle.

quote from Jalopnik: Designed by Jay Shapiro, an interactive advertising pioneer who sold his company to cross the globe, the EcoRoamer isn't a home-away-from-home. It's his family's only home. Shapiro recently began a journey that will take him, his wife, his two cats, and his two kids from Alaska to the tip of South America and then on to Africa. From there, they'll cross the Strait of Gibraltar into Europe, heading through Russia to Mongolia and Asia. This isn't just some retired ad exec's globe-trotting vacation — Shapiro is attempting to traverse the planet without damaging it. And the EcoRoamer isn't just hell on wheels, it's at the forefront of a growing movement to tread lightly and "use what you know to do good as you go." The living space is built almost entirely from recycled materials, the truck uses solar panels for most of its auxiliary power, and its massive diesel engine runs on biodiesel. read more at http://jalopnik.com/5514798/ecoroamer-the-high+tech-zombie+proof-survival-rv

Find out about the ecoroamer project & get the plans to build your own at:

http://www.ecoroamer.com/drupal/open

From Earthroamer: The F-650 is the “hat trick” of trucks – a class leading Ford Super Duty truck powered by a legendarily reliable Cummins turbo-diesel engine delivering power though a dependably durable Allison transmission. With up to 363 horsepower and 800 foot pounds of torque being delivered to a an Allison 6-speed automatic transmission driving massive 46 inch diameter, 18 inch wide tires mounted on military wheels, the EarthRoamer XV-HD is ready to tackle the biggest overland challenges on the planet.

Just like EarthRoamer XV-LT, the EarthRoamer XV-HD uses a seamless, one-piece molded composite body. Unlike the EarthRoamer XV-LT that is only available in three body lengths, the EarthRoamer XV-HD is available in 24 different lengths ranging from 15.3 feet to 32.5 feet to match every length Ford F-650 chassis available. Three different truck cab configurations are available (regular cab, super cab and crew cab) providing 52 different XV-HD configurations. In fact, a shorter camper could be installed on a longer chassis with a fifth wheel hitch or flat bed on the back providing an almost limitless number of combinations. Overall finished EarthRoamer XV-HD vehicle lengths available range from a short of 19.7 feet (shorter than the shortest XV-LT!) to a gargantuan 36.8 feet long.

Found some pics of EarthRoamer #116  in the final stages of assembly in Colorado.

Front before:

Front after:

Rear Before:

Rear After:

Here is the camper (the white one in the foreground)

Here are some shots from today as they mated the camper to Ford F550:

He talks about the 4R70W and the 2 most common types of failure. Here's a small sample of the article, click on the link above for more information:

The 4R70W automatic transmission in the Ford 4.6L or 5.4L usually fails in one of two ways: It'll either start slipping (when in Drive) or will go into ‘Limp In Mode’...

...And so, you may be asking yourself: How can I tell if my automatic transmission needs an overhaul? How can I tell if it's just a shift solenoid that's bad? These are some of the most frequently asked questions I get and if you're having an automatic transmission issue with your GM rear wheel drive vehicle... this article might have some of the answers you're looking for.

Now, although in this article I won't be showing you how to tear down your transmission, it will help you to find out if your electronically controlled automatic transmission issue is due to a malfunctioning shift solenoid/sensor or internal damage.

By the way... the info in this article can also be applied to older AOD-E equipped Ford vehicles with OHV V8 engines

...

4R70W automatic transmission problems boil down to two basic types of failure. One, the most common, is caused by some sort of electrical failure and which causes the vehicle's computer to command the automatic transmission to stay in 2nd gear no matter what the vehicle's speed. The second type is when the transmission suffers some sort of internal damage and the transmission starts to ‘slip’ when in Drive.

Find out wheter you 4R70W has solenoid failure or internal transmission damage by reading the rest of his article.

And if you find that you need a new one, we've got 'em in stock w/ a  3 year/100,000 mile warranty.

Perhaps the engineers at Nissan saw this one

Uncle Red Make an AWD car

from wikipedia (link):

The title character, Red Green (Steve Smith), is a handyman who tries to find shortcuts to most of his projects, trusting most of his work to duct tape. He is the president of the Possum Lodge, a fictional men's club in the small northwestern Ontario town of Possum Lake, near the also-fictional town of Port Asbestos. He and his fellow lodge members had their own TV show in which they gave lessons and demonstrations in repair work and outdoor activities, and advice for men.

Segments

The show's basic concept was that of a cable TV show, taped in part on a hand-held camera by Red's nephew Harold. The show's structure evolved over time and included several regular segments that appeared in almost every episode. These segments were interspersed with each episode's three main plot segments. The most frequent segments were "The Possum Lodge Word Game", "Handyman Corner", and "Adventures with Bill".

Handyman Corner

Red attempted to demonstrate creative and often humorous ways to tackle relatively common tasks, such as taking out the trash or making use of derelict cars, or to create something extravagant out of what ever he could get his hands on. Memorable examples included a paddlewheeler made out of a van on pallets and a revolving door, a jetpack made from two propane tanks, a hybrid car from recycled golf carts and satellite dishes, and a kiddie ride made from a bar stool attached to the agitator of a washing machine. Duct tape, "the handyman's secret weapon," was almost always the fastener of choice. In one episode, he tried to duct tape the Ontario-Quebec border as a potential solution to Quebec separatism. The segment customarily concluded with the aphorism "If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy."

Enjoy!

A HAPLESS motorist is facing bankruptcy after he blew up a £1.3million Porsche during a test drive.

Mark Hales was at the wheel of a replica Porsche 917 owned by veteran Formula One ace David Piper, when he over-revved it causing the engine to explode.

Hales, 62, claims he made a gentleman's agreement with Piper that the 81-year-old would cover the cost of any mechanical damage caused during the session.

But the multi-millionaire denied making the deal, sued Hales for £48,000 in damages - and the High Court has ruled in his favour.

Hales, who writes for Octane and Auto Italia magazines, has been left with a bill of £48,000 to cover repairs to the car, plus £63,000 in legal costs.

Speaking after the ruling, the "devastated" journalist said: “I’ve sold everything to pay my lawyers and if he chooses to enforce the findings it is bankruptcy for me.”

 The drama took place on a track at Cadwell Park, Lincolnshire in April 2009.

Hales was racing against Piper - driving a Ferrari owned by Pink Floyd drummer Nick Mason - when the Porsche slipped out of gear causing the engine to blow.

Hales, an experienced driver, claimed: “The Porsche 917 is a tough car to drive and it is a matter of fact that the engines blow up. Everyone has done it and I knew this was the case.

“I had a conversation with David Piper and he asked me what happens if the engine blows up.

“I told him I couldn’t be responsible and he said ‘okay’ but then chose to forget the conversation."

But in his findings Judge Brown ruled Hales' driving "fell below the standard of care required of him".

All may not yet be lost for the journalist.

Outraged by the court decision, users of motoring web forum PistonHeads are raising funds to contribute to his £111,000 legal bill.

We can't speak to its validity..but thought you might be interested in April Kohl's article.

And here's part of her article:

•  Drill holes in the engine casing, in a line along the crack. The holes should be drilled on both sides of the crack using a drilling jig with a center at 1/8 inches to achieve the correct spacing. Once the holes are drilled, covert the holes into slots by drilling a series of smaller holes between the larger ones on either side of the crack.

• Purchase a metal stitching kit from your local marine supplies shop or engine supplies store. The locks should be made from steel with a high nickel content so it is strong enough to withstand the forces the metal will be placed under. Fit the locks from the metal stitching kit into the slots you drilled in the engine casing and tap them firmly into place with the hammer.

• Drill holes between each of the locks, along the length of the crack. Slide the taps from the metal stitching kit into the holes and tap them into place with the hammer. Insert the screws from the metal stitching kit into the taps, following the instructions with the kit. Grind the surface to level off the repair and make it flush with the rest of the engine casing.

Among brands, we see many luxury marques near the top, including Bentley (+42.86 percent), Porsche (+30.53 percent), Audi (+27.77 percent), Mercedes-Benz (+23.05 percent), Cadillac (+20.34 percent) and Land Rover (+19.97 percent). If taken as a sign of a recovering economy, then the wealthier among us appear to be leading the way.

(Excerpt) Read more at autoblog.com ...

It seems almost unbelievable that a third of these rarely used cars are only one or two years old, in other words, they are brand new! Whilst these cars are sat there unused on people’s driveways, they’re also depreciating in value. London was one of the top ‘ghost car’ hot spots, with 20% of residents leaving their cars at home. This probably shouldn’t come as too much of a surprise, because the city has a good public transportation system that is a viable alternative to driving yourself from A to B. The other hot spot was the North East of England, where 22% of people leave their cars at home in favour of alternative forms of transport.

The RAC says that according to their survey, 40% of British drivers use their cars less than they did at this time last year, whilst 14% are driving more often. A shocking 45% of those surveyed said that financial concerns were behind their decision to leave their cars at home. This isn’t too much of a surprise given the current economic climate.

It looks as though British drivers might have been bracing themselves for the Government’s fuel duty rise, due to take place in January 2013. However, now that has been scrapped, worried motorists are under less pressure. Those who were considering cancelling their plans to visit friends and family in other parts of the country over the festive period might change their minds. The RAC has been campaigning for Government to scrap the highly unpopular fuel duty rise and it looks like the pressure from the motoring organisation has finally paid off.

The RAC’s technical director, David Bizley had advised that the fuel duty rise would actually harm the economy. He said that reducing fuel duty would actually generate more tax revenue for Treasury. Although we haven’t seen a reduction, many are still celebrating this victory for motorists.

 Abandoned Cars of Dubai

This will make any car fan cry

There is an impressive amount of valuable information on the site.

If you have a 67-72 Ford...you MUST check it out.

Here's a small sample of what you will find:

The quickest way of differentiating between the different familys of Ford engines is to simply count the valve cover bolts.

• 2 bolts: 239/256/272/292/312  (produced from 1954 to 1964)
• 5 bolts: 332/352/360/361/390/391/406/410/427/428 (FE engine)
• 6 bolts: 221/260/289/302/351W
• 7 bolts: 429/460
• 8 bolts: 351C/351M/400

Found this one the Mazda 3 Forum: mazda3club.com

Anyone else with Mazda 3 blown engine?

 I have a 2006 Mazda 3 (5 speed manual) that recently needed a new engine. The car had 81,000 miles on it and we have promptly done all oil changes on it. One day it was fine and the next the motor was blown (horrific sound when the motor started). We had no warning, no oil leaks, etc. We checked the oil and the oil level was fine. We had it towed to our mechanic and he also checked the oil, the level was fine, but he noticed metal chips in it indicating a major engine problem. He said it needed a new engine. We were skeptical, even though this mechanic has been wonderful to us, so we had the car towed to a Mazda dealer. The dealer immediately told us the car was down 3 quarts of oil (lie) and the engine was blown because we didn't have oil in it. After much research on my mechanics part and mine, I'm finding out that many Mazda 3 engines have blown for no reason. We were told that there are NO rebuilt engines for this. My mechanic told me that no one will rebuild them because of all the problems they have had with them. We ended up spending $6,000 at the dealer for a new engine.
Has anyone else had a blown engine for no reason? And no, we do not race this car.

I have never let my fuel tank come close to running dry, but I've heard for years that you should keep it least half full during the winter. Outside of not running out of gas when it's dangerously cold out, is there a mechanical reason for the advice?

Thank you.

This video contains tips on things to service while your engine is out for a head gasket job for example. Though valve adjustment, head bolt torque, and head installation are not covered in this video segment, I do have videos on these subjects on my channel. Best wishes!

[–]nibbles200 1 point 1 month ago

I am very familiar with the 5.7 vortec that is in your truck. Very common to get missfires when the intake gasket is failing which is a real weak point in these engines. Here is what you do, pull all the hoses off both valve covers and plug them, like with ductape or if you have a few hands, hands. The proper way to test this is with a vacuum gauge with a host squished into the dipstick hole and any vacuum indicates an intake gasket leak, you should have a slight pulse or a little pressure, not vacuum. when I plug all the valve cover holes, if I feel a lot of vacuum I usually don't bother with the vacuum gauge and just assume intake gasket.

The problem with the intake gasket is that they are made of plastic and warp over time until they fail. There is a newer design where there is a piece of sheet metal inside the plastic gasket and it seems to be a more permanent fix.

Other possibilities. The injectors on these truck are another weak spot. They are a open @ yield poppet valve and tend to get gummed up and sticky. I found running a ton of sea foam can help if this is actually the problem.

Other known weak spots: the distributor wearing out. If you pull the distributor cap and can wiggle the rotor or see any damage to the cap pins then time for a new distributor.

Last possible know issue, The distributor caps on these are known weak spots due to their flat design they can fail and short across so replace this regardless and check the distributor while you are at it.

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[–]ansag1[S] 1 point 29 days ago

after all of the over analyzing and tearing down the truck, it all turned out to be a weak distributor cap. It tested with an ohm meter and all was well, but it wouldn't pass enough voltage to arc.

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[–]nibbles200 1 point 29 days ago

I probably should have listed that in reverse, start with the quick cheap fixes first. Happy to hear you are back in business.

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[–]ltmoto 1 point 1 day ago

as a tech when i get a misfire car in i start buy doing a relative compression test to check the mechanical integrity of the cylinders, so i know if i need to diag mechanical or electrical problem. normal compression test isnt the most accurate test.

seems like you have covered the electrical part, maybe not the injectors because they are a pain. but if you want to you can remove the upper intake and remove the "spider" assembly and swap 6 with another injector, reinstall and see if miss changed to swapped cylinder.

back on the mechanical side with that engine valve seat problems are common with im guessing around 200k miles on your vehicle it will probably needs a valve job.

at my shop this could of been diaged for about 120. you would know right away what the problem is and how much it would be to fix it. from your list of parts it looks like you spent 5-600 if they were quality and not napa "specials" . had to put that in for all the "parts throwers" out there. better to get it figured out before you put so much money into it that you cant afford to not fix it.

i know everyone has a bad experience with shops but not all are bad. hope this helps

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join the discussion at http://www.reddit.com/r/auto/comments/12joti/99_chevy_57l_p0300/

Found an interesting discussion on Reddit. Join the discussion...

Cracked cylinder head on my Jeep. Want to sell. Should I bother repairing it? (self.Cartalk)

submitted 22 hours ago by Llamadan

I have a 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport that's been nothing but a headache since I bought it five years ago. I'm looking to sell it, but I'm not sure how to maximize my profits.

Here's some background: During a long trip a few months ago the truck overheated and seized up. I got AAA to tow the vehicle back to my house and it's been sitting on the side of the road ever since. When I tried to pop the hood, the release cable snapped. I had to remove the headlights and take out two bolts on either side in order to get under the hood. I checked all of my coolant lines and radiator; they were negative for leaks. The car starts fine, but I haven't driven it in months. My instrument cluster has had some sort of electrical issue ever since I bought the car so all the gauges stay flat. I have no way of telling if my engine is running hot or not.

I was pretty stumped so I got a friend of mine who works on cars to take a look. He shined a light down into the cylinder head and saw a pretty sizable crack. I had him run an estimate for the repair - he wants $1200 for parts and labor and apparently this is a good deal.

I'm done with this car and just want to get rid of it. I'm not sure if I should pay my friend to fix it and then try to sell it, if I should junk it, or if I should just sell it as is. It has 145k miles on it, the gauges don't work, there are some scratches on the hood and a little rust on the hub caps. My key cylinder jammed up a while ago so I drilled it out. I keep a dummy cylinder in the socket and start the car with a screwdriver. The hood release cable snapped, but I could fix that myself without a problem.

What should I do?

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[–]Windowsrookie 8 points 20 hours ago

That is why you want working gauges. Overheating is the killer of all engines. Too bad, the 4.0L will run 300,000+ miles on just oil changes, that is if you have a working cooling system.

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[–]toastedbutts 5 points 16 hours ago

Some people just want to watch the world burn.

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[–]Llamadan[S] 2 points 17 hours ago

I went through a radiator, water pump, and several coolant lines. I've had three different mechanics try to fix the gauges over the years and none of them have been able to. I spent a solid day testing voltage on damn near every connection under the dash and eventually gave up. What a headache.

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[–]DCJodon 1 point 6 hours ago

Get a new cluster. They're cheap parts and easy swaps. Try to find one with similar mileage.

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[–]Mcflyguy 1 point 25 minutes ago

Theres probably a seperate voltage regulator for the guage cluster itself. I would track that down. It might be inside the guage cluster or close to it. Also, Get on a Jeep forum. Someone else may have run into this problem.

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[–]tcpip4lyfe 4 points 14 hours ago

Engine might. The jeep will probably fall apart way before that.

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[–]FreakazoVroom. Not a mech. 1 point 9 hours ago

In that case I should probably create a post asking how to fix my temp gauge.

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[–]Abominati0n 0 points 12 hours ago

    Too bad, the 4.0L will run 300,000+ miles on just oil changes

Obviously not in OP's case. Working gauges or not, overheating even once shouldn't happen in the first place and when / if it does, it shouldn't cause the head to crack this bad. So your point about this specific engine is moot isn't it?

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[–]Windowsrookie 1 point 8 hours ago

He said he overheated it to the point that the engine seized up. I would expect head damage to any engine at that point.

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[–]4boltmain 3 points 22 hours ago

Sounds like a clam to me. I am normally inclined to fix the cars if you are scraping together just to get it to run, and you know it needs other repairs then it might be worth to sell it to someone who can fix it and you put the money to something that's ready to go.

If you can't fix it all the right way then probably shouldn't fix it at all.

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[–]Llamadan[S] 1 point 22 hours ago

So should I sell it to a junkyard or put an ad up somewhere and sell it as is?

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[–]tad 3 points 21 hours ago

You'll get more as is, just depends if there's a mudder or somesuch in the neighborhood looking for a chassis.

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[–]dilligasatall 3 points 20 hours ago

Im not sure how it is in your area, but where I live the wreckers won't give you much at all for a vehicle. You would probably make more money off it by selling it yourself or parting it out, assuming you want the extra hassle of doing so.

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[–]lordofthefart 1 point 17 hours ago

I'm not sure what scrap prices are currently but he should be able to get at least $300 for it.

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[–]toastedbutts 1 point 16 hours ago

175-200 a ton give or take if you drive it in. Strip some of the good stuff out to eBay first, they'll cut you down a few bucks but it's worth it.

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[–]302HOfixer of things 3 points 22 hours ago

Where did he shine a light? I know you said "down into the cylinder head" but the places where he could do that are pretty limited.

I honestly think you should sell it. 1200 bucks could buy you something with an intact cylinder head, and you could get a few bucks for your Jeep, either for parts or scrap or for a mechanic to fix up.

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[–]Llamadan[S] 1 point 22 hours ago

He shined it down into the oil fill cap. There was a crack about an inch long and maybe a quarter inch wide directly below the cap. I saw it myself.

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[–]Executive_Slave 3 points 20 hours ago

Any way you could get a picture of this crack? 1/4" wide is some serious damage.

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[–]goofygrin 1 point 19 hours ago

I'd put it on CL as a Mechanics Special Deer Lease vehicle and get as much as you can for it (and I think $1k would be gracious). No way I'd pay to fix it... that'll be throwing good money after bad IMO.

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[–]Llamadan[S] 2 points 17 hours ago

My train of thought was that if I junked it, I could get maybe $400. If I fixed it for $1200, and then sold it for $2000, I'd have $800.

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[–]imprl59 10 points 17 hours ago

In that case just put it on Craigs List for $800 and be prepared to take 6 or 7. Some nut like me will come along and buy it from you.

The $800 buyer is going to take it as it is and not be worried about every little thing. The $2k buyer is going to expect everything, including the dash, to work and everything to be presentable. My rule of thumb is it takes four thousand to turn a five hundred dollar car in to a two thousand dollar car.

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[–]roferg69 5 points 14 hours ago

Upvotes for you, sir. "My rule of thumb is it takes four thousand to turn a five hundred dollar car in to a two thousand dollar car." is about the best thing I've read about used cars in a long time.

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[–]EngagementBacon 1 point 17 hours ago

thats a risk but its do able.

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[–]goofygrin 2 points 16 hours ago

That's a bold assumption that you're going to get $2000 for a vehicle with 150k miles, a non working dash, rust, bad tires, flat battery that just had the head replaced (unknown issues with the bottom end). Plus that $1200 can easily turn into $2000.

Bird in the hand, etc. I think the risk >>> the reward in this case.

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[–]lordofthefart 1 point 15 hours ago

I think you'll have a hard time selling it without working gauges and a messed up ignition.

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[–]EngagementBacon 1 point 19 hours ago

The question here is: In terms of money, how much do you like this Jeep?

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[–]Llamadan[S] 3 points 17 hours ago

I hate it. I'm glad it lasted me five years, but Im ready to move on.

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[–]EngagementBacon 3 points 17 hours ago

there it is, put it up on craigslist for a few weeks and if it doesn't sell there for at least 400 dollars scrap it, or part it out on a jeep forum.

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[–]animalmother94 1 point 13 hours ago

if you have the time and space, part it out. basically take it completely apart, bag and tag all the pieces, and sell them on ebay

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[–]ShoGunzalez 1 point 9 hours ago

Donate it to an organization that repairs and modifies them for disabled drivers, especially combat vets, and write it off on your taxes.

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[–]bobroberts7441 1 point 7 hours ago

You don't say what engine (4.0 or 2.5), manual/auto, 4wd/2wd. Listing those, post over at /r/jeep and sell it to someone that knows it's value. You're shitting on a rose. 145K is still a baby, they go 3 times that in the right hands.

   

How to convince my insurance company to replace my aftermarket part (self.auto)

submitted 8 days ago by enrodude

Im looking for advice to convince my insurance company to change the aftermarket hood they gave me. Quite frankly, I am uneased that I was given a aftermarket part that is made from inferior metals and products instead of asking me if I wanted a OEM one. They were suppose to ask me if I wanted OEM and I would have to pay the difference however they are playing me asking if anything is wrong with the finish or look of the aftermarket one.

They only give me a "scripted" answer instead of dealing with me with respect so I need advice what I can do.

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[–]sometimesiknowthings 3 points 8 days ago

Bodyshop estimator here. If you didn't want an aftermarket hood, it was your responsibility to tell the shop. They would have used an OEM part and billed you for the difference. Now that the aftermarket hood is on your car, you have little recourse unless it doesn't fit.

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[–]enrodude[S] 0 points 8 days ago*

This bodyshop was crooked.

They broke interior trim and glued them back on instead of replacing them. They broke my bug deflector and covered it up with tape... List goes on.

The shop didnt even walk me around my car or explain the repairs to me when I came by to pick it up so I never had the chance to ask for OEM. Would have paid the difference but now they are telling me I signed the work order and accepted the repairs...

The insurance company is backing them up. This is the alst time I go to a insurance approved body shop. If I go to my own place, I prolly would have had much better services.

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[–]TehGogglesDoNothing 3 points 7 days ago

Never accept delivery of your car until you check the work. Never sign something if you don't know what it means.

You signed away your ability to contest.

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[–]sometimesiknowthings 1 point 7 days ago

Well the interior trim and the bug deflector should have been replaced, so maybe it's a hack shop. However, it's your responsibility to tell them what you want done to your vehicle. They're not mind readers. You could have called them at any time to specify an OEM hood.

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[–]Uncle_Erik 2 points 7 days ago

It will depend on the terms of the agreement you have with the insurance company. If your policy says this is OK, then that's the contract you agreed to.

/lawyer

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[–]Zamboulie 1 point 7 days ago

does the aftermarket hood look the same as the OEM one? is it a different colour or something? if not, its not a big deal. i dont see the problem here.

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[–]vdubstep59 0 points 7 days ago

Sounds like you have a terrible insurance company...it is their duty to contest a shops work

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[–]enrodude[S] -1 points 7 days ago

I signed the form without them explaining anything and walking around the car when I picked it up.

When I arrived to pick it up, the lady at the desk was antsy to leave for the day so all she did was make me sign (even though I asked to look at the car first) and gave me my key and told me they were closing up for the day...

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[–]VoodooIdol 1 point 5 days ago

Well, that's your own dumb fault. You should have made them wait.

Looking at getting the HCH 'cause it's a 2020mile round trip from my home to where I'll be going to college next year, and igetting 20mpg HWY in the cougar will kill me trying to do that.

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[–]leredditor13 1 point 1 month ago

honda>ford.

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[–]nacaruh 1 point 1 month ago

Do not buy a Honda hybrid. Source: I own one.

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[–]CreativeWriterNSpace[S] 1 point 1 month ago

what's wrong with it?

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[–]nacaruh 1 point 1 month ago

My dashboard looks like a Christmas tree everyday of the year.

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[–]CreativeWriterNSpace[S] 1 point 1 month ago

Like a "Twinkle, twinkle, little star" christmas tree?

Yikes.

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[–]nacaruh 1 point 1 month ago

I droped it yesterday at the dealer for the fourth time in the year. They are just reseting the light till the warranty expires ,im sure .

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[–]CreativeWriterNSpace[S] 1 point 1 month ago

:(

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[–]DarkestPassenger 1 point 1 month ago

TDI cars are still bang for buck way better than a hybrid. Batteries just arent good enough yet.

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[–]weasel-like 1 point 1 month ago

1992-1996 Civic hatchbacks, especially the DX and CX get fantastic mileage, and are easy to find. I'd go with that to be honest. A used hybrid makes me nervous...

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[–]CreativeWriterNSpace[S] 1 point 1 month ago

I've decided to skip over Honda altogether and go with a TDI Jetta.

I personally don't like hatchbacks. I find them ugly. And the Civic hatchbacks don't really have the room/space that I'd like.

But thanks!

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[–]VoodooIdol 1 point 26 days ago

Welcome to VW electrical and transmission problems.

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[–]weasel-like 1 point 1 month ago

You think a sedan has more room than a hatchback? :shrug: TDIs are great, but maintaining an aging VW is pricey.

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[–]CreativeWriterNSpace[S] 1 point 1 month ago

I think hatchbacks have more room when compared to similar sized vehicles. Comparing a civic hatchback to a jetta sedan in terms of space int fair for either one.

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[–]NastyKnate 4 points 1 month ago

Personally, I wouldnt go near a used Hybrid. the battery will more than likely need to be replaced at some point. they are far from cheap.

you want a good car with decent mileage? think about a plain civic. a corolla. a golf or jetta.

Man things have changed since i was in college. I commuted an hour each way for class in an 89 mazda pickup. every week it took 2 bottles of brake fluid, several litres of oil, and got somewhere around 9MPG.

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[–]CreativeWriterNSpace[S] 2 points 1 month ago

I want a car with the best mileage I can get. Hoping for about 40mpg highway, with a good amount of room for me to bring clothes and stuff with me.

But I'll definitely be thinking about forgoing the used hybrid for a Jetta TDI or something similar. I'm not set on any kind of car right now, so...

Thanks!

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[–]Exedrn 1 point 1 month ago*

The batteries in the earlier gen HCH's have been and are an issue. IIRC, its around $5k to replace them if/when they go.

I currently have a '10 HCH with nearly 67k on it. The battery still holds a charge, but never fully charges. Have had software upgrades and a new regular car battery, but still doesn't charge fully. Only an issue in heavy city traffic as the motor doesn't shut down at lights, like it should, when the battery gets low.

Also, the tires can affect your mileage. I used a different tire than what it come with out of the factory and my average mileage dropped by about 5 MPG. Some of that could be related to the battery not holding a charge as well because battery issue started about the same time the tires needed to be replaced (at about 48k). Still get low 40's so not complaining too much.

Otherwise, its a Civic. Proper maintenance and it will last forever.

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[–]CreativeWriterNSpace[S] 1 point 1 month ago

That's what I was thinking. It is a Civic... and with proper maintenance it will last forever. But mjsbullitt got me thinking about TDI Jetta's now too. Gr.

Thanks!

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[–]Jimmers1231[!] 1 point 1 month ago

The easy fix is to just not drive your car home from college. Take a plane or train instead.

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[–]CreativeWriterNSpace[S] 1 point 1 month ago

It'll still be cheaper to drive. Plus there's no public transport where the college is located... the school is about 135 miles from any major airport and it's about the same to the nearest train station.

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[–]Jimmers1231[!] 1 point 1 month ago

Out of curiousity, what general areas are we talking about?

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[–]CreativeWriterNSpace[S] 1 point 1 month ago

I currently live in Wheaton, MD. I'll be going to school in Cleveland, MS.

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[–]Jimmers1231[!] 1 point 1 month ago

Well, It looks like amtrack tickets from rockville to greenwood, ms is as close as you are going to get. and that looks like about $300.

1000mi/20mpg=50gallons*about $4/gal=$200 + hotel room for a night because you're not going to drive 16hrs at a time. and that's not including wear on your car. It won't take many trips before something breaks. even if you get a newer civic or jetta.

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[–]CreativeWriterNSpace[S] 1 point 1 month ago

Why wouldn't I drive 16 hours at a time? I'd probably stop a few times, but I wouldn't stop to sleep at a hotel.

And both the Civic and Jetta get closer to 40mpg.

Idk. i really don't know what I'll truly do until time gets closer.

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[–]Jimmers1231[!] 1 point 1 month ago

I just meant that 16 hours is a long time to drive at once. Hell, I'm fried after driving for 8.

Ok, well if you want to get a civic or jetta for the gas mileage. Why not get a new fiesta? They have a 13k MSRP which means you can probably get them cheaper. they would come with zero miles and have a warranty. They would also get that 40 mpg.

If you look for a used one that came off of lease or something, you could get it for cheaper than the civic and not have to deal with battery issues.

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[–]CreativeWriterNSpace[S] 1 point 1 month ago

I test drove the 2012 fiesta last January and it didn't feel... right. But I need to go test driving in all the cars I'm looking at.

The sad thing about it is that if it wasn't for the gas mileage, I would probably keep the Cougar... handling is awesome and "loose". I can do a tight U-Turn with two fingers.

I just have to test drive and see which ones feel better.

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[–]Jimmers1231[!] 1 point 1 month ago*

My first car was an '85 cougar, followed by an '88 t-bird. great cars. My brother and I drove them into the ground and they took every bit of abuse with a smile. I know quite well what you've got. I would suggest keeping ahold of the cougar. You just don't see many of those things around anymore.

Thats why I initially suggested a train or plane. Drive your car down there, then leave it there. for return trips, drive the car to greenwood and drop it off while you hop a train back. Borrow a parent's car for while you're in town. The 2k miles per trip would kill any car pretty quickly.

Plus, I always enjoyed taking the train. You can read, catch up on some homework, play some games, or just walk around and talk to other people on the train. Its a pretty neat way to travel. And usually, it is surprisingly not much longer than driving it yourself.

EDIT: I just double checked the schedule. It looks like due to a 12 hour layover in chicago, it would take about a day and a half. Maybe the train isn't the best option here.

EDIT2: It looks like you could fly to Chicago then train to greenwood. the trip looks to be something like leaving at 1:45p and arriving in MS at around 9a the next day.

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[–]CreativeWriterNSpace[S] 1 point 1 month ago

I think I overexaggeated my love for the car. The handling is really about the only thing I like about it.

The turn signals don't work, there are always crazy/odd/bad creaking sounds, there's something wrong with the suspension, the frame is rusting to the point of holes (the brake line was just replaced from rusting through), and I 'm not sure, but I believe there is something wrong with the transmission now as well.... everytime I start it it almost stalls (and actually has stalled a couple of times.... it's an automatic).

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[–]mjsbullitt 2 points 1 month ago

I don't know a huge amount about hybrids but from what I've heard the 06-08 hch had some battery issues that if buying used could mean big money to replace. Biggest thing (like buying any car) will be the cars own history.

Personally, if you're just looking to get better mileage and aren't completely dedicated to hybrids I would look into a TDI Jetta. Similiar gas mileage but imo a much nicer car.

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[–]CreativeWriterNSpace[S] 1 point 1 month ago

And I told my step-dad and mom about my decision to go with an older (2000-2005) TDI and they balked at the fact that it was a diesel and therefore would cost more in gas. They just spent a good 30-45 minutes trying to convince me that the Hybrid was the way to go.

Hybrid will be about $12k initially (with taxes, titling and everything). TDI will be about $7k initially (with taxes, etc...).

While diesel is about $4/gallon here compared to the $3.70/gallon regular gas, I'm still not quite sure that doing a Hybrid over the TDI would be better financially.

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[–]mjsbullitt 1 point 1 month ago

While true diesel usually costs more than gas, you wouldn't have to worry about replacing batteries. There's no right choice, both are good cars. Ill just say there's a lot of cars in the segment your looking at. Look up what they compete against and spend a few days test driving at local dealerships if possible.

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[–]CreativeWriterNSpace[S] 1 point 1 month ago

Having to replace the battery is something that I would kill me at that point.

You said there are a lot of cars in my segment... what does that even mean?

I'll do my best to test drive them, but don't know how well it'll go with the age of the cars I'm looking at. Even the Used Car dealerships don't really have anything made before 2004... but it's definitely something to look into.

Do you know of any other cars, under $10k that were made after 2000 and get 35-45mpg?

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[–]CreativeWriterNSpace[S] 2 points 1 month ago

My friend's dad actually has a 2005/6 TDI Jetta. It's really nice, actually, and I haven't even really looked into it. I'm thinking I should no. It's a VW Diesel... how can you go wrong?

Thanks!

Our answer: You're a full time student. Keep the Cougar. It's the most environmentally responsible decision.

Replaced the engine on my 2000 Toyota Celica w/ a JDM 1ZZFE engine! Three days, approximately 30 hours

GM unveils small-block, LT1 6.2-liter V-8 engine for '14 Chevrolet Corvette

http://www.detroitnews.com/article/20121024/AUTO0103/210240387/1361/GM-unveils-small-block--LT1-6.2-liter-V-8-engine-for-%E2%80%9914-Chevrolet-Corvette

quote from Autoblog:

http://www.autoblog.com/2012/10/24/meet-the-lt1-the-corvette-c7s-new-6-2-liter-small-block-v8/

The Corvette's new LT1 V8 engine is, no surprise here, set to make the car very competitive within its class. Preliminary numbers suggest no less than 450 horsepower and 450 pound-feet of torque for the 6.2-liter engine, as well as an estimated 0-60 mile per hour time of less than 4.0 seconds when installed in the base C7. To put those numbers in perspective a bit: The LT1 not only has a far higher specific output than the 6.2-liter LS3 that it replaces – up at least 20 hp and 26 lb-ft – but its torque is seemingly competitive with that of the 7.0-liter LS7 that lives in the heart of the current Corvette Z06.

end quote

quote from LeftLane:

http://www.leftlanenews.com/chevrolet-reveals-c7-corvettes-next-gen-lt1-62-liter-v8.html

Chevrolet has released a deluge of information about the 2014 Corvette’s fifth-generation small block V8 - the LT1. Despite displacing the same 6.2 liters as the outgoing LS3 mill, the LT1 is 99.9 percent new and packed with significantly more power and technology than its predecessor.

The new small block churns out 450 horsepower at 6000 rpm and 450 lb-ft of torque at 4000 rpm, improvements of 20 ponies and 26 lb-ft over the LS3. Chevrolet says that output is enough to empower the C7 Corvette to sprint from zero-to-60 mph in under 4.0 seconds, and with over 400 lb-ft of twist on tap between 2,000 and 4,000 rpm, the LT1 also provides plenty of mid-range output.

Though it retains the tried-and-true pushrod configuration, the LT1 features direct-injection, variable valve timing and a fairly high 11.5:1 compression ratio. A dry sump oil system will be an optional extra in place of a standard wet sump unit.

Also part of the LT1 package is a cylinder deactivation system that saves fuel by effectively turning the 6.2-liter V8 into a 3.1-liter V4.  Chevrolet says the system will help the LT1 better the less-powerful LS3's 26-mpg highway rating.

end quote

And just because we really dig it - here's a Canadian Military G Wagen:

The 3.3 was bored to 3.78 in (96 mm) and stroked to 3.43 in (87 mm) to create a 3,778 cc (231 cu in) version.^[1] This EGH version is built at Trenton Engine in Trenton, MI.

The 3.8 got an increase in power of 12 hp (9 kW), for a total of 162 hp (121 kW) in 1994 via a new intake system. In 1998 the compression ratio increased for a total of 180 hp (134 kW) and 240 lb·ft (325 N·m). In 2001, like the 3.3 the 3.8 got a variable intake control system which boosted output to 215 hp (160 kW) at 5000 rpm with 245 lb·ft (332 N·m) at 4000 rpm.

Vehicles using the 3.8 include:

• 1991–1993 Chrysler New Yorker and Chrysler Imperial 150 hp (112 kW), 213 lb·ft (289 N·m)
• 1994–2010 Chrysler minivans
• 2004–2007 Chrysler Pacifica
• 2007–2011 Jeep Wrangler
• 2009–2010 Volkswagen Routan

Quote from: http://www.carsguide.com.au/blogs-and-stuff/Driven-troppo/gold_one_off_nissan_gt_r_for_usain_bolt?origin=hpc5

Nissan has built a GT-R finished in real gold for the Usain Bolt Foundation

The Olympic 100m and 200m champion sprinter has become an ambassador for Nissan, and has added his golden touch to a one-off edition of the Japanese brand’s range-topping performance GT-R.

The car’s interior fit-out has been finished in real gold, and is embossed with Bolt’s signature. It spearheads the results of another GT-R project in which Bolt is helping Nissan develop a limited-edition version of the already track-worthy car, further tweaked and tuned to respond to his lightning reflexes.

Meanwhile, the gold GT-R will be auctioned on eBay, with the proceeds being donated to the Usain Bolt Foundation -- a charity for youth in the athlete’s home country of Jamaica. However it may not remain a one-off. Bolt already owns one Nissan GT-R, but after seeing the gold one built for charity has reportedly asked Nissan to build another personal one for him.

The multi world record holder possibly has a vacant spot in his garage. Just days after announcing in June he would become an ambassador for the Nissan GT-R, Bolt crashed his BMW M3 into a guard rail. Bolt was thought to have been attending a party nearby in Jamaica's capital, Kingston, just before the 5am crash.

Lumilor Electroluminescent Paint

http://www.autoblog.com/2012/10/01/clarkson-hammond-and-may-sign-new-3-year-bbc-deal-to-host-top-g/

And now...the news! Jeremy Clarkson, James May and Richard Hammond, a.k.a. the Top Gear blokes, have signed a new three-year deal to continue hosting the globally popular BBC2 program. The new deal specifies that Hammond and May will receive a share of Top Gear commercial revenue in exchange for promoting the show internationally.

According to the Guardian, the significance of this deal stems from the fact that while The Hamster and Captain Slow previously only received pay for their involvement in the hit show, Clarkson and his mate Andy Wilman were profiting greatly from the international marketing of the show. That's because Bedder 6, a joint venture set up five years ago between Clarkson, Wilman and the BBC owns the show's hugely lucrative commercial rights. The outfit derives its earnings from live Top Gear shows, DVD sales and worldwide marketing of the brand. Clarkson owns 30 percent of Bedder 6 while the BBC owns 50 percent and Wilman owns the remaining 20 percent.

In July, it was revealed that Clarkson's income jumped £900,000 (about $1.45M USD) following word that dividends from Bedder 6 increased from £6 million ($9.7M) last year to £9 million ($14.5M) this year. This, combined with his salary and his £350,000 ($566k) Bedder 6 fee, makes Clarkson the highest paid BBS personality, earning more than £3 million ($4.85M).

It should be noted that this news comes as many other BBC talent have received reduced pay amidst public scrutiny of the government-owned television operator. The BBC is quick to point out that the deal with the Top Gear hosts and Wilman was penned "without using a penny of license fee money." This new deal allows for Hammond and May to have a piece of the pie, without dipping into the BBC's budget. Even so, there has been some debate among British critics whether television personalities are worth these sorts of seven-figure deals – this, despite such salaries being commonplace in Hollywood.

We also found the Telegraph article:

Jeremy Clarkson set for £15m windfall

and

Jeremy Clarkson took £3.2m out of Top Gear firm before selling to BBC Worldwide

from wikipedia:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bedder_6

Bedder 6 is a British company, responsible for exploiting the Top Gear brand. It was founded by presenter Jeremy Clarkson and executive producer Andy Wilman in October 2006.^[1] In November 2007, BBC Worldwide purchased 5001 shares giving them a stake of just over 50% of the business. They are believed to have paid £100 for the shares, but also transferred merchandising and some foreign sales rights^[2] to the company.^[3] The remaining 5000 shares are split 60/40 between Clarkson and Wilman respectively.^[4]

The company posted a £1.8m post-tax profit in September 2008, giving its shareholders £700,000 in dividends.^[5]

Bedder 6 own 50% of Sub-Zero Events Limited, a joint-venture set up by BBC Worldwide and Brand Events in February 2008 to run the Top Gear Live shows. Both Bedder 6 and Sub-Zero Events' registered addresses are at BBC White City, the building where Top Gear's offices are located.^[6]

Make your own: http://www.sinistersandsports.com/

Check out the NYTimes blog: http://wheels.blogs.nytimes.com/2012/05/07/after-hayabusa-heart-transplants-smart-cars-that-pump-fire/

Here's a quote from that article:

Fabricators, primarily outside the United States, have made a pastime of mating the body of the tame eco-cart with the engine of a Suzuki Hayabusa sportbike. The results can be seen on YouTube smoking tires and humiliating Ferraris in drag races.

Though these crossbreeds had appeared primarily overseas, at least two American firms have built prototype ‘Busa Smarts and extended their expertise to like-minded motorists, offering conversion kits and complete build-ups.

For example, we have a 300CUI that does not include the TE pass

http://engineguy.com/ford-longblock-engine-egl30087nt-150-core-deposit.html

This article from enginebuildermag may shed some light on the issue...

from:
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/1635/ford_351_windsor_cylinder_heads_with_missing_te_passages.aspx

quote:

Engine builders have reported seeing some E7TE head castings for the Ford 351W that weren’t drilled for the thermactor emissions (T.E., or A.I.R.) passages. It turns out that Ford plumbed the T.E. directly to the exhaust manifolds for some of the truck and van applications from 1990 through ’97, so some of the heads don’t need the T.E. passages.  

Engine builders have reported seeing some E7TE head castings for the Ford 351W that weren’t drilled for the thermactor emissions (T.E., or A.I.R.) passages. It turns out that Ford plumbed the T.E. directly to the exhaust manifolds for some of the truck and van applications from 1990 through ’97, so some of the heads don’t need the T.E. passages.

There have been several applications that came with or without T.E. in the heads and a few that always came with it in the manifolds. However, there’s no way to know which version the customer has on most of them unless you ask him to tell you where the T.E. tubes go when he orders the engine.

Engine builders should be aware of a possible problem with the following applications:

• 1990-’94 Broncos came both ways;
• 1990-’93 F150/250/380 pickups came both ways;
• 1990-’93 E150/E250/E350 vans came both ways;
• 1994 F250/F350 pickups came both ways;
• 1995-’97 – All E250/E350 vans over 8501 GVW came with the T.E. plumbed to the exhaust manifolds;
• 1995-’96 – All F250/F350 pickups over 8501 GVW came with the T.E. plumbed to the exhaust manifolds.

Engine builders say you should ask the customer if the T.E. is plumbed to the heads or the exhaust manifolds before selling a 351W for one of these applications. Be sure to stock some T.E. plugs for the customer who discovers he needs them to plug the holes in the back of the heads after the engine is installed.

An excellent tutorial from the 1930's on the principles and development of the Differential Gear. Fast Forward to 1:50 if you want to skip the intro.

http://www.reddit.com/r/Cartalk/comments/ztdfe/f150_46l_vs_54l/

Part 1

Part 2

Part31

Part 4

http://ecomodder.com/forum/EM-hypermiling-driving-tips-ecodriving.php

1) Drive less

The best way to reduce fuel use is to drive less:

a) Live closer to work;
b) carpool;
c) bicycle;
d) walk;
e) take public transit

2) Park and ride (bicycle)

If part of your commute is not biker friendly, travel to a point that is and then bike the rest of the way.

The "park and ride" concept can also be applied to carpooling and mixed private/public transit travel.

3) Attend a driving clinic

Hybrid owners groups are popping up in cities around the world - and non-hybrid owners are often welcome to attend regular meetings. Fuel efficient driving techniques are commonly discussed, and clinics are sometimes offered by experienced members.

4) Clean junk from your trunk

The additional weight you carry in your vehicle doesn't ride for free. It takes energy to move it around. Removing unnecessary stuff from your vehicle saves fuel.

5) Let the most efficient driver drive

More than one licenced driver in the vehicle? Let the most efficient driver drive! And take the opportunity to learn from his/her wisdom.

6) Join a fuel economy forum

Join an outstanding forum to learn ways to increase your fuel economy by talking to others who share your enthusiasm and goals.

7) Remove unused roof racks

If your vehicle come with a roof rack and you don't use it, remove it. Same holds true for bike racks. Doing so will reduce aerodynamic drag, resulting in better fuel economy.

8) Check tire inflation regularly

Make sure that your tire pressures are, at minimum, set to manufacturer specifications. The higher the pressure, the less rolling resistance.

Remember that pressure is affected by ambient temperature. As temperature drops, so does your tire pressure, so keep track as the seasons change.

9) Track your fuel consumption

One of the first steps in improving efficiency is tracking fuel consumption.

Get in the habit of saving all your fuel receipts, recording distance travelled and fuel economy (MPG). Keep a small notebook to record trip type and new techniques employed to monitor your progress.

While the slower pace of tank-to-tank feedback isn't ideal for feedback on driving technique, recording and montoring your "big picture" progress is great motivation.

See the Ecomodder Blog for more information on tracking fuel consumption.

10) Use a fuel consumption display

Feedback is absolutely critical to improving driving habits.

Tank-to-tank monitoring of your consumption is not good enough. You need instrumentation that lets you reset the readout at will so you can track individual trips, or even portions of trips you regularly travel.

Options for vehicles without factory installed fuel economy computers include the commercial ScanGauge and PLX Kiwi. Open source choices include the MPGuino and SuperMID. Even the venerable vacuum gauge can help you improve efficiency when driving with load / target driving.

Get information about fuel consumption displays on the efficiency mods list.

Saw this on reddit: http://www.reddit.com/r/Cartalk/comments/zmdl3/enhancing_gas_mileage_what_are_some_relatively/

Enhancing gas mileage: What are some relatively inexpensive upgrades I can make to my vehicle to get better MPGs? What are some practices that help? (self.Cartalk)


Basically, I'm a poor college student and I am tired of paying $90 every two weeks to fill up my truck's gas tank. What are some relatively inexpensive changes I can make to my engine to enhance my gas mileage?

Also, what are some tips you guys have for driving conservatively? Of course there's the "don't rapidly accelerate and rapidly brake." What else?

PS: I'm driving a 1992 Chevrolet Silverado 2WD with a 350v8 engine, and it's thirsty.

We liked the response that contained this link:

http://ecomodder.com/forum/EM-hypermiling-driving-tips-ecodriving.php

And we also liked the reference to the Mythbusters tailgate post:

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[–]el_muerte17'87 Camaro Z-28 38 points 13 hours ago*

Sell truck, buy small car. Take public transportation or ride a bicycle whenever possible. There aren't any engine mods that will save you more in fuel than they cost to install.

FWIW, $90 every two weeks could be a lot worse... when I had my pickup, it cost me about $60 per week, and that was on propane.

[edit] Don't just ninja downvote, tell me why I'm wrong.

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[–]abl0ck0fch33s3 9 points 12 hours ago

I upvoted you back to one because there's no reason to downvote. If you're going to drive a big v8, you're goin-g to pay a lot in gas. Common sense.

And he's completely correct as far as upgrades go. There not much you can do to the vehicle to help. Just using less throttle, driving slower/behind semis. Unless its a turbo diesel. Those things run on black magic and can get 36mpg making 800hp and 600tq

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[–]MistaSchlong 7 points 10 hours ago

A truck driver who did an AMA said you shouldn't follow behind the truck to save gas. His explanation was that if a tire should blow, the bits would probably smash your windshield. Not worth it.

That said, I've done it. Saves tons of gas.

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[–]eskaton 3 points 10 hours ago

not to mention the rocks they kick up. don't trust mud flaps.

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[–]abl0ck0fch33s3 1 point 10 hours ago

same thing applies with any other car on the road. other than size, i don't see how it's any different.

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[–]tophermeyer1999 Jeep XJ 2 points 8 hours ago

Trailer tires are often recycled/retreaded tires that are much more susceptible to failure. Not blowouts, but a violent separation of the tread from the rest of the tire. The truck rolls along just fine, but the remnants of the tread get tossed around forcefully.

Have you ever noticed the chunks of tire on the side of the highway? Those are mostly retreads. That's where they come from.

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[–]mynameistuxMiata/mx-5 1990 6 points 11 hours ago

As a black magician, I can confirm that turbo diesels do run on black magic.

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[–]gasfarmer 3 points 12 hours ago

Second the motion for a small car.

I drive ~800kms each week for work, and pay about $45 in diesel to fill up.

Though, I'm lucky to break 120 in a 1.6l 4cyl non-turbo diesel.

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[–]dmuns[S] 2 points 9 hours ago

Yeah, selling the vehicle isn't really an option right now. I have a limited income with a seasonal, part-time job, along with small living stipends from a scholarship. I do ride my bike a LOT. It's how I commute to classes and into town at times. The public transport here is really limited, and my schedule just doesn't match up with it at all.

Plus, for the seasonal, part-time job, I need the truck to get it done.

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[–]shihchiun 6 points 13 hours ago

Not much. In the end it's still going to be a giant brick with a gas-guzzling engine.

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[–]dmuns[S] 1 point 9 hours ago

Sure feels that way at times.

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[–]eskaton 4 points 9 hours ago

sell the truck and get a small driving appliance.

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[–]dmuns[S] 1 point 9 hours ago

Ha, I like your wording. I need the truck for a seasonal, part-time job that pays pretty well.

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[–]RockinRhombus 3 points 13 hours ago

Easy on the throttle.

What kind of tires are you sporting? Huge A/T's are going to ding you in the gas department.

I mean, If there were a magic recipe to get better fuel economy, I'd be all over it. I get 13mpg as it is. Bumping it up ever since with improved driving and am thinking about going smaller on tires.

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[–]dmuns[S] 1 point 9 hours ago

I'm using some Hancook 100k miles, all-terrain tires. So, they're about the best I can do in terms of tires. I am pretty good at looking ahead and knowing when and where to ease off the throttle when a stop is coming up.

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[–]Keplaffintech 1 point 5 hours ago

But not so easy, engines are most efficient at their peak torque rpm, which is usually around 3000-4000

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[–]knuckleboneautobody and heavy truck repairs :/ 3 points 13 hours ago*

A basic tune up probably wouldn't hurt. Air filter, plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Also easy on the throttle helps too. Also a quality fuel system cleaner like seafoam wouldn't hurt either.

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[–]ninjabkE30s: 325i Vert & 318i Coupe 3 points 13 hours ago

Add correct tyre pressures to this list and that's about all you can do without changing your driving style.

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[–]hilhilhil 3 points 12 hours ago

Don't forget the Tornado air intake insert. Sorry, an actual contribution: keep your car's weight down by not hauling anything around that isn't necessary.

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[–]_31415_MK3 Jetta 2.0 7 points 11 hours ago

That's why I always left my girlfriend at home.

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[–]FenixSC 3 points 10 hours ago

Mythbusters did a bit that may be useful to you:

http://youtu.be/r3aqHbD-O9E

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[–]Obsolite_Processor 3 points 9 hours ago

Brake less. Coast more. You don't need to be on the gas if you are coming up on a stop light/sign/slower traffic.

Also, slow down. It's not a terribly aerodynamic car, and going slower means less wind resistance.

Check your tire pressure and make sure you don't run them low.

Make sure your air filter is clean.

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[–]dmuns[S] 1 point 9 hours ago

I practice most of this all ready, but could probably work on the whole "slow" thing at times. But, I am pretty good about coasting and using good acceleration techniques.

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[–]BeardamonI see'd it on the TV once 3 points 11 hours ago*

Duct tape the body seams.

Edit: -1 points? Come on, I wasn't serious!

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[–]dmuns[S] 2 points 9 hours ago

Yeaaaah, not gonna happen.

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[–]corse 1 point 8 hours ago

I've read other posts recommending a smaller vehicle. This ultimately would be the best choice. However, I see that you have replied that you can't at this time sell it. Rather than spending money on mods that cost money to save money and really would just probably cut even, perhaps consider looking at your driving habits.

A while back I read an interesting article about "hypermiling" - essentially it's strategic driving to assist in better driving. Some of the stuff is a no brainer, some of the stuff makes you go "hmm interesting" and some of it makes you go "No way I'm doing that." - While some of the suggestions are as extreme as turning a car off and coasting, others are as simple as understanding tire friction, tire inflation and slowly approaching a light instead of stopping so that it requires less gas to go again.

While I am not a "green freak" or a hippy who feels the desire to try and squeeze 80mpg out of a vehicle, I think some of the suggestions are great, and things that all drivers could perhaps reconsider when it comes to getting good gas and developing efficient habits. http://ecomodder.com/forum/EM-hypermiling-driving-tips-ecodriving.php

Sometimes saving gas can be as simple as our habits.

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[–]mynameistuxMiata/mx-5 1990 2 points 8 hours ago

Top gear did a great test, they got a prius running as hard as it could around the track, with an M3 matching the speed of the prius. The M3 with its big V8 used less fuel than the prius, as it wasn't being pushed very hard to keep up. Moral of the story is, the way you drive is more important than what you drive, and if you thrash an economical car, you will end up using more fuel than if you comfortably drive a big car or a sports car.

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[–]whatmyname 1 point 1 hour ago

I believe the website is called ecomilers or hypermilers. Something to that effect. Go there, it is filed with people in your position with all different types of vehicles working on getting the best fuel economy.

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[–]needstrangersadvice -3 points 10 hours ago

leave your tail down when your not hauling. better yet, remove it. it creates an enormous pocket of drag and lowering your gate can give you a bit better mileage. Any weight you can take out will help.

My G20 had a large steel tube bolted behind the front bumper to help in "low speed accidents", so ~20 mph or less. it weighed about 40 lbs, and i wasn't driving in a manner that would result in an impact slower than 20mph, so I unbolted it.

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[–]etherreal 6 points 10 hours ago

Mythbusters showed the tailgate thing to be false.

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[–]dmuns[S] 5 points 10 hours ago

Actually, the having the tail-gate up in the closed position reduces drag and improves gas mileage (just a little).

When the air flows over the cab, it hits the pocket of air contained in the bed, and creates a revolving air thingy in the bed. The air flowing over the cab rolls over this and off the back end of the truck instead of dragging along the bed of the truck.

We’re still roughly a year out from the launch of the next generation Corvette, but that hasn’t softened the hype. Not in the least. Take for example the latest independent video, which gives us computer generated images of what the C7 could look like in motion.

The video was done up by Trinity Animation, using C7 renderings drawn up by Jalopnik, which seem to be dead accurate judging by spy photos of the upcoming car. Still not too sure about how the rear fascia looks, though.

You're probably wondering how they get their 200mph Supercars up to their 30th floor apartment high rises. The answer will make you hate them even more.

Supercar owners living in an exclusive high-rise apartment block can now park their beloved motors from their - LIVING ROOMS. Hamilton Parks in Singapore is a brand-new 30-storey development where flats cost between £6 and £15 MILLION. But with parking in the city limited, the skyscraper designer came up with an innovative way of parking some of the planets fastest cars. Residents simply drive their 200mph motors into a biometrically-controlled lift at the base of Hamilton Parks on the city's swanky Orchard Road.

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found this one ehow.com:

How to Replace a Car Engine

You will need to replace your car engine when: it has over 150,000 miles on it and is slowing down, it stops working or if it starts smoking excessively. Replacing a car engine is a complex procedure. It will require extensive knowledge of the car and its mechanical components, as well as the proper equipment and tools.

We're doing the same for engines...

This paper addresses the question of how much the Internet lowers prices for new cars and why. Using a large dataset of transaction prices for new automobiles and referral data from Autobytel.com, we find that online consumers pay on average 1.2% less than do offline consumers. After controlling for selection, we find that using Autobytel.com reduces the price a consumer pays by approximately 2.2%. This suggests that consumers who use an Internet referral service are not those who would have obtained a low price even in the absence of the Internet. Instead, our finding is consistent with consumers choosing to use Autobytel.com because they know that they would do poorly in the traditional channel, perhaps because they have a high personal cost to collecting information and bargaining. This group disproportionately uses Autobytel.com because its members are the ones with the most to gain. We estimate that savings to consumers who use Autobytel.com alone are at least $240 million per year. Since there are other referral and informational sites that may also help consumers bargain more effectively with dealers, we conclude that the Internet is facilitating a large transfer of surplus to Internet consumers in the retail auto industry.

http://www.nber.org/papers/w8667

http://www.fasttrakauto.com/free_reports/ten_steps_to_grow_auto_repair_shop_sales/

10 Steps to Grow Auto Repair Shop Sales

Lots of people make resolutions for the New Year, only to watch them melt away faster than a Popsicle on a 100-degree day. So forget the Popsicle resolutions – let’s focus on making resolutions that drive revenue and profits. Here are 10 steps we should all stick to:

#1: Avoid the HIPPO

Make data-driven business decisions. Too many companies make decisions based upon the HIPPO – Highest Influencing Person’s Personal Opinion. The HIPPO term is used by analytics guru Avinash Kaushik to describe the decision-making processes. It’s used by most businesses (large and small) in the U.S today. Your business has available to it free, easy-to-use tools that will tell you about customer intentions, behaviors, marketing effectiveness and more. Use these tools to guide decision-making. The information provided by actual data will result in more profit with less waste than opinions expressed by others, no matter how qualified the opinion may be. Number 3 made decisions about his car based on race and test data, not the opinion of a crew chief or engineer. That’s why he won more than most.

#2: Cut traditional media

Have you noticed that even traditional media (TV, magazines, newspapers) promote themselves online? They’re not wasting valuable promotional dollars on advertising channels that are losing audience. The costs are astronomical, the returns are poor and online offers you higher returns on investment. Think about it. An ad on Google may only cost you $100 for an entire month whereas a newspaper advertisement may cost you $1,000 for an entire month. It’s time to stop spending dollars on direct mail, radio advertisements and newspaper ads. It’s time to start investing your marketing dollars in paid-search advertising, social media and email because you get more for your money.

#3: Talk less about you and more about customer needs and wants

Many auto repair shops give their customers a history lesson on how long they’ve been in businesses. How many people like listening to history lessons when they’re spending money? Not many. Talk less about your business and start addressing the needs of your customers. Once you start helping your customers, they will start to appreciate and respect your business. Give your customers what they want. It doesn’t matter if you’ve been in business for 50 years or five years. What matters is that you start helping your customers. That’s what grows sales.

get the rest at fasttrak...

Contrary to popular belief, repairing a car is not a job anybody can do. It's more accurate to say that it's a job many people attempt, but few do right.

Confessions of an ex-mechanic

This is a quote from the article on allpar.com
http://www.allpar.com/dealers/exmechanic.html

Let's talk about how mechanics get paid.

We'll start with Flat rate pay:

Flat rate pay is when someone is paid per job instead of a salary or per hour. This flat-rate system motivates workers to finish as many jobs as possible, but can lead to sloppy work if the workers sacrifice quality for quantity. Some auto shops pay their mechanics a salary, or a hourly rate that roughly translates into a salary. Other shops pay mechanics based on time billed. Some shops pay their mechanics a flat-rate fee.

This is the most typical method of payment for dealership technicians. The majority of independent shops do not run on a flat rate system, but in some rare cases you may find ones that do, or give you the option to. To be a flat rate technician means that you are paid by the job, not the hour. Each manufacturer establishes a set time for the replacement of each and every part of their automobiles. Everything from a side marker bulb to a transmission has a set time and the manufacturer must pay the dealership to do the servicing for warranty repair time (anything that must be replaced that is covered under warranty while the vehicle is still under warranty). For repairs made out of warranty the time to remove and replace the defective part is normally multiplied by 1.5 or more.

Here’s how it works; a manufacturer allocates four hours to replace a transmission on a vehicle that is still under warranty. The technician that is assigned to replace the transmission completes the job in three hours but is paid for all four. Not only does the technician make an extra hour but the dealership makes a profit. But, if it takes the technician five hours to replace the transmission then he/she is only paid for four hours. This method is both loved and hated by those who repair vehicles.

Advantages for the shop paying mechanics flat-rate fees are that the shop can estimate its income by using averages and that the shop does not have to pay relatively slow mechanics more. This structure also motivates mechanics to work more quickly. Customers benefit too; they can budget for a repair job and know that the price will be the same, regardless of if the mechanic finishes quicker than expected or takes longer than expected. However, many car shops charge their customers flat-rate fees, regardless of if the shops pay the mechanics a flat rate, hourly or salary.

Head over to allpar.com for the rest (link at top of page)

(Link: http://autos.aol.com/article/finding-the-best-auto-repair-shop/)

When is the best time to look for a high quality auto repair shop?

Answer: before you need one.

Because making a sound decision is difficult when you are faced with a car problem and time restraints, finding a shop takes time and patience; you want to research and evaluate the facts in a relaxed fashion. Emergencies create an emotional climate that thwarts a clear and objective evaluation. So find a repair facility before you need one.

The Prime Time To Visit A Shop

The process of evaluating repair shops is really quite simple. Call or visit shops in your area. The best time to call or visit is between 9A – noon because it is after the morning rush and cars are in the bays being evaluated. By noon the techs have completed their diagnoses, come up with an estimate of repairs, and customers are being called to discuss the necessary repair work. Thus, 9A – noon is lag time for the owner/shop manager and the best time to talk with them. Catch them any other time and you might find them curt.

Acronym Hunt

Once you have the owner/shop manager's undivided attention, tell them you are looking for a repair shop. Ask them what professional automotive repair associations they belong to. Membership in associations such as AAA (AAA Approved Auto Repair), iATN (International Auto Technicians Association), ASA (Automotive Service Association), or TechNet (Carquest Technician's Network) means the shop and/or technicians care about their level of expertise and have met the standards of membership. In addition, look for membership in such associations as the BBB (Better Business Bureau), SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers), ASP (Automotive Service Professionals), and ICAR (Inter-Industry Conference on Auto Collision Repair).

Involvement in these organizations tells you that the owner of the repair facility is interested in the quality of the workmanship, and most likely operates by a code of ethics expected by the organization. In addition, membership in these associations often requires that the shop subject itself to an arbitration process that is binding, should the need for arbitration between customer and shop arise

...

- Certification from ASE, ACDelco, ASP, and/or manufacturers such as GM, Ford, Chrysler, Toyota, Nissan
- Aftermarket training from such leaders as NAPA/Echlin, Moog, Carquest, TRW, ACDelco, or Bendix
- Continued education from a technical training college

These shingles are evidence that the technicians have taken the initiative to "go beyond the call of duty" and keep up with changes in their field. Not only are they trained in the latest technology, but they also show a serious interest and pride in their work. Continued education/certifications also convey that the owner of the shop cares about the quality of the work because usually he/she is the one who foots the bill for any extended training.

Another factor to consider when choosing a repair facility is the equipment and repair information systems available. Does the shop have state-of-the-art equipment such as hand-held computer scanners and diagnostic software, digital volt-ohm meters, logic probes, lab scopes, and on-line repair information systems like Alldata, or Mitchell-On-Demand? Don't be afraid to ask if they have these resources. Up-to-date information systems and tools are necessary to diagnose and repair your hi-tech car accurately. Without them, fixing your automobile is a hit-and-miss proposition that you pay dearly for, in both dollars and vehicle down time.

Visit the link above for the full article

Most auto repair shops are very good when it comes to fixing cars, but when it comes to marketing they are out of their element. When the economy is doing well business is usually good, but when the economy is slow and people are holding off on having their automobile repaired, it can be very tough. When times are slow mechanics have to think about their marketing or lack of marketing and find new ways to get customers coming in the door. The following list is comprised of the top ten marketing strategies for auto shops to use to get local customers.

10 – Radio Advertising – High Cost with a Large Reach
The right radio station can be an excellent way to promote your shop because most people listening to the radio during rush hour are in their cars. The challenges with radio are that you need repetition for it to have an effect on the consumer and buying time during rush hour is very costly. This strategy is good for brands that are bigger and have multiple locations.

9 – Local Newspapers – High Cost with Medium to High Reach
Local newspapers can be an effective way to advertise if you have the right ad placed in the right section. It is a great way to create brand awareness but only when done on a repeated basis. To get the best value out of this type of advertising you have to be consistent which can be quite costly.

8 – Physical Directories – Medium to High Cost with Decreasing Reach
The physical directory books have been one of the bread and butter advertising channels for many auto mechanics. While these directories can still provide some new customers, most people no longer have their book accessible and instead use the internet to find local businesses. This strategies effectiveness has been decreasing for the last five years and will continue to decrease in the future.

7 – Local Flyers – High Cost with Medium Reach
Printing a small run of flyers and having them delivered to your local neighborhood can be an effective way to get new customers. The challenge with this strategy is that you only have from the time they collect the flyer till they walk to the blue box to catch their attention. The best way to do this is to have a special or discount offer that is very hard to refuse. This strategy is not as effective as it used to be because people don’t save flyers anymore so you have to get people who are already in the market for your service.

6 – Sending Cards – Low to Medium Cost with Low Reach
Sending a card to your customers to either thank them for their business or to give them a special offer can be a very effective way to get repeat business. While this doesn’t bring in new customers it can get your current customers to visit your shop more often. These campaigns work best when they are timed with the changing of the seasons or other events that would cause people to need to have their car serviced.

5 – Strategic Alliances – Low Cost with Medium Reach
Finding non competing businesses that have the same target market and passing business between each other can be a very effective way to advertise. If you’re a general repair shop you can refer business to a windshield and glass replacement shop and have them do the same. The key to this is to find the right alliance partner that has the same quality of work and customer service so you can make sure that your customers are treated properly. When this strategy is done right it’s a win-win for both businesses.

4 – Referral Programs - Medium Cost with Medium Reach
Referral programs are typically done by finding businesses that have the same target market as you but offer a different service and giving them a commission for each customer that they refer to you. This is a way for them to earn more money from their existing clients and allows you to get new customers with very little work or risk on your part. The key to a successful referral program is finding the right businesses and providing them with a good incentive for helping you out.

3 – Social Media – Medium Cost Because of Time with Large Reach
Social media has become the fastest expansion of word of mouth marketing. While a person has the potential to speak about you to approximately 9-27 people, they’re online network can range from several hundred to several thousand people. With a simple Facebook status post or tweet they can reach a much larger group than ever before. This can quickly spread your name and drive business to your door. By engaging with your audience and participating on these sites you are gaining more exposure and credibility.

2 – Online Review Sites / Directories – Low to Medium Cost with Large Reach
As the internet grows in both its popularity and reach more people are looking for local services online. The reason customers look through online directories is to research the different auto shops and read reviews. Positive reviews have become critical in many industries online as they are the easiest way to gain trust with your customers and the more of them that you have online the more business you will get. 

1 – Word of Mouth – Low Cost with Medium Reach
The number one strategy for auto shops to bring in new customers is word of mouth. Almost all auto shops generate a significant amount of their business through word of mouth. This is why many of them don’t do any other types of advertising. One of the big appeals to word of mouth advertising is that it’s very passive. Having customers recommend you to their friends is great but only when they do it. There are several ways to increase word of mouth advertising. The main one is to go out of your way to provide excellent customer service. When you WOW your customers they want to talk about you to their friends and family. A unique positive experience becomes something worth sharing. The more they talk about you the better it is for your shop.

Weight reduction

All-aluminium engines (head and block made of aluminium alloy) are increasingly popular. Mass production all-alloy engines such as Rover K-series, BMW M52 straight-six, Nissan VQ-6, Jaguar AJ-V8, Mercedes V6 / V8, GM LS1and Northstar V8, Peugeot's 2-litre four and GM's new four-cylinder family proved that aluminium block will spread to nearly all cars in the near future.

Aluminium head has been popular much earlier and most engines now employ it. Car makers favour it not really for weight reduction, but for its better cooling property. As 4-valve head generates more heat than 2-valver, aluminium cylinder head seems to be a good solution.

Block went to aluminium much later, mostly because of cost reason. Block is the heaviest part of the engine, thus using aluminium can save dozens of kilogram and benefit a lot to weight distribution of the car. On the other hand, it is also much more expensive, simply because aluminium is pricier than cast iron.

2. Plastic or Magnesium intake manifolds

Intake manifolds is another heavy component, especially today's variable length manifolds. Using aluminium alloy instead of cast-iron was just the first step. Many car makers now switched to thermoplastic manifolds made of Nylon 66 or other heat-resisting reinforced plastics. It's cheap, light and free-flowing, nearly a dream for car makers.

However, plastic manifold's biggest flaw is noise, which is considered to be too much for luxurious cars. Therefore Mercedes-Benz chose to use Magnesium manifolds. This material is even lighter than aluminium, although a bit dearer and less resistant to heat. No problem, intake manifold is not too hot. Like any metal, air flow in Magnesium pipes generates less noise than plastic one.

TVR's and Ferrari's V8 even employ Kevlar for intake manifolds.
 

Reduction of friction and inertia

Whether an engine responsive and high-revving depends very much on the inertia of reciprocating parts, i.e., crankshaft, pistons and connecting rods. While crankshaft material is still bounded to steel for the reason of strength, pistons of high-performance engines are usually made of aluminium. The lighter the pistons, the higher rev and power the engine obtains.

Using alloy pistons is not very costly, what prevent most mass production all-alloy engines from using them is the friction generated between pistons and cylinder walls. It is commonly known that the contact between two aluminium surfaces results in high friction - much higher than between cast-iron and aluminium. Therefore many engines with aluminium block have to employ cast iron pistons.

The most common solution is to insert a thin cast-iron liner to the cylinder, covering the cylinder wall and surround the aluminium piston. Of course, this lift production cost at bit.

An alternative solution was introduced by Chevrolet Vega in the mid-70s. Its Cosworth-designed all-alloy engine employed iron-coated aluminium pistons, thus the block could be linerless. However, it's more expensive than cast-iron liner while not delivering as good performance as Nikasil treatment so that no longer in use today.

Instead of cast iron liner, Nikasil treatment coats a layer of Nickel-silicon carbide, usually by electrolytic deposition, to the inner surface of aluminium cylinders. Since Nikasil layer generates even less friction than cast iron liner, revability and power are both enhanced. Moreover, it is only a few hundreds of a millimetre thick, therefore the spacing between adjacent bores can be reduced considerably, making the engine smaller and lighter. Since the early 70s, Nikasil treatment has been the most favourable solution used by high-performance cars.

The last alternative is fiber-reinforced metal (FRM) cylinder sleeve, which is used by Honda NSX 3.2-litre. Its cost and power / space efficiency are both half way between cast-iron liner and Nikasil. A fiber-based material in the form of cylinder sleeve is first inserted to the die of the block. Melted liquid aluminium is poured into the die and integrate with the fiber sleeve. Then the cylinder wall is machined to the desire bore dimension, leaving only 0.5 mm thickness to the fiber sleeve which covers the cylinder wall. It generates lower friction than iron liner, thus improves rev and power. Moreover, the fiber sleeve reinforces the block, allowing the distance between adjacent bores to be reduced yet maintain mechanical strength.

2. Titanium connecting rods

Everybody knows titanium is light yet strong, although it is very expensive. Finally, this aerospace material spreads to road car use, although still bounded to high-end sports cars. Lamborghini Diablo, Ferrari F355 / 360 M / 550 M etc. and Porsche 911 GT3 use it to raise engine's revability to what would have been impossible.

3. Forged components

Forging seems very old-fashion, but there is still no alternative way to obtain high-strength yet lightweight parts without it. From Honda Type R to all exotic supercars, forged pistons, crankshaft and con-rods are commonly used.

Forging is done completely manually, therefore more human-intensive and expensive. Forge the heated metal into a die result in more homogeneous and closer depositioning of metal atoms, thus improved strength and heat-resistivity. With higher strength, the part can be made thinner and lighter, eventually benefiting rev and power.

Forged pistons are also polished by man to further reduce surface friction.

Automotive Troubleshooting

Copyright (C) 1996-2002 by Steve Litt

Find a Good Mechanic

People email me regularly with horror stories of inept automotive technicians charging them a fortune to mess up their car worse than ever. Is there a way to find a good mechanic? Yes!

Don't Disconnect the Battery with the Engine Running!
Well meaning mechanics and friends do this all the time. Sometimes nothing breaks. Sometimes it fries computers and other semiconductors. Includes a letter to give mechanics before they start work.

Steve Litt's Automotive Overheating Guide
Tips on finding the root cause of an overheating problem.

Roadside Overheating Diagnosis
The entire Fall 2002 Troubleshooting Professional Magazine details all aspects of this important subject. The time to read this is before you're stuck on the side of the road with a broken head gasket and plumes of steam rising from the engine.

Automotive Cooling System Maintenance and Repair
Our most comprehensive cooling system docs to date. Theory of automotive cooling systems, the anatomy of an overheat, fast and economical diagnostic techniques, and cooling system preventive maintenance. This is the April 2002 Troubleshooting Professional Magazine.

Troubleshooting Automotive Overheating
The entire May 2000 issue of Troubleshooting Professional Magazine is devoted to this subject.

Working With Auto Mechanics
The entire May 2001 issue of Troubleshooting Professional Magazine is devoted to finding, evaluating, and working with excellent automotive mechanics.

Steve Litt's Automotive Overheating Autoreply
This is the autoreply I send to emailed auto overheating questions whose answers can be found on Troubleshooters.Com, or questions not thorougly thought out by the sender. This is also a wonderful resource for anyone with an overheat problem.

The Universal Troubleshooting Process:
The ten step process optimized for diagnosing problems in machines and systems, INCLUDING CARS AND TRUCKS. This is the most famous content on Troubleshooters.Com.

Litt's Overheating Hypothesis:
A discussion of a possible cause for cyclic overheating, unexplained overheating, and unexplained coolant loss, and a test to verify or rule out that hypothesis. This has been superceded by Troubleshooting Automotive Overheating, but it's reveals some of the underlying thought that came before.

Links

Dealing with car dealers on repairs and warranty work: From  Car Place. This much needed page gives you some ideas what to do when the dealer shafts you.

The Creative Lab Scope Technique Page: Tom Roberts has assembled this authoritative site devoted to automotive diagnosis with a digital storage oscilloscope. A must-read for the shop wanting to move beyond tuneups and tires.

The Dodge Dart Page: You want to know engine sizes, compressions, production numbers, and ideosyncracies of every Dodge Dart from 1963-1976? It's all here!

Autohaus AZ Gasoline Alley Tech Tips: Lots of great info on several automotive systems. I especially like the tips on brakes and the cooling system.

Chrysler-Plymouth-Dodge Central: Unltimate Mopar site. Links to just about everything, and lots of value added including troubleshooting tips and a great FAP. Excellent engine reference.

Beyond the Basics - An Automotive Encyclopedia: Ultra-extensive reference for specific problems, or to learn more about the workings of cars in general. Covers all systems in a car.

Autoshop Online: This is an automotive repair "help line", but they supply (free) a basic but thorough description of each system in a car. Excellent for general maintenance and basic repairs.

The Dodge Dart Page: Some people love MoPar. At 18 I bought my first car, 1959 Plymouth with a flathead 6 and a peace symbol. It burned a quart of oil every 50 miles. Years later I got a 72 Dodge Coronet with a 400. Now I have a 67 Coronet. I have 318 reasons to love it and one not to -- it's not a Dart! If you don't understand this, or if you do, or if you need info on what Darts could take what engines, or which darts came with hemis, read The Dodge Dart Page.

Cooling System

Steve Litt's Automotive Overheating Guide.

Automotive Cooling System Maintenance and Repair.

Litt's Overheating Hypothesis.

The Cooling System: Lot's of info on cooling system repair, including repair/replace alternatives. Part of Beyond the Basics - An Automotive Encyclopedia.

FAQs about Cooling: Through a series of email questions and responses, this Volvo-centered FAQ provides a good insight into the workings of any cooling system.

http://www.autoshop-online.com/auto101/cooling1.html: Great beginner theory on the cooling system. Part of the great Autoshop Online documentation.

http://www.calwest-radiators.com/tips/: Brought to you by Calwest Radiators, contains three valuable cooling system tips.

Air Conditioning  System

AirCondition.Com: Good source of automotive AC info. Best thing about this site are the Bulletin Board.

Electrical

Autoshop 101: Free, online courses on electricity and basic auto electronics. Huge numbers of PDF documents on the electrical system.

Wiring - Do's and Don'ts: Title says it all.

Triumph Alternator Diagnosis and Repair: The principles in here are useful even for non-triumph owners.

Diesel

Diesel Troubleshooting Tips: This is the Web at it's best -- For-profit Diesel Injection Service of Texas devotes a page to pure-content troubleshooting tips. Also see their Diesel Troubleshooting Chart.

93 Saturn SC2 Needs Engine, Lots of new parts/extra parts

2 days ago ... 93 Saturn SC2 needs engine. Car is in excellent shape for age with current inspection. Automatic, cruise control, power locks, power windows, ...

pittsburgh.craigslist.org

The first installment of the Tahoe engine video, you might remember this one from the leak down video. In part 2 I want to cover the highlights of the swap and I would like the final video to cover the removal of the bad piston to have a look at what happened to the original engine.

Stay dirty

ETCG

Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information.  EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video.  Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result.  Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.

I've had more than one request for this, the other day I had one come in and was happy to make the video for it. This is a fairly easy one compared to some that I have had to deal with, just work smart and have the right tools and you will be fine. Remember the longer the tool the better the leverage and that you should check to make sure you have the correct belt before you try and install it.

Visit me at EricTheCarGuy.com

http://www.ericthecarguy.com/

Stay dirty

Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information.  EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video.  Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result.  Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy. 

ETCG

This one goes out to BowlingBallOut who posted a question about a sticky throttle on his Saturn. It was a great question so I decided to make this video in response to it. There are many different configurations of throttle assemblies but for the most part if you have a throttle that is sticking you might be able to fix it using the procedures in this video. I am aware you may not able to purchase spray throttle cleaner in some states now but I'm sure they have some alternative available at your local parts store.

Visit me at EricTheCarGuy.com

http://ericthecarguy.com/

BowlingBalOutl's chanel

http://www.youtube.com/user/bowlingballout

Stay dirty

ETCG

Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information.  EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video.  Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result.  Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.

Kind of a request, I've described this procedure a few times in print but never made a video. As I said in the video if your having issues with a fluctuating idle, no heat, or an overheat problem you may want to start here. Also, if you have just serviced the cooling system in any way this is the procedure I recommend to fill it back up. The only regret I have with this one is the end where I didn't shoot footage of closing up the radiator using the tool that I used in the video, I may show it at some point in the future.

As always here is the link to EricTheCarGuy.com

http://ericthecarguy.com/

Stay dirty

ETCG

Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information.  EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video.  Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result.  Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.

Enjoy, visit his site, and maybe click on a few links to support his great work.

Thanks!

http://www.ericthecarguy.com/ I get questions about engine performance issues all the time and one of the things I tell people to check for is a vacuum leak. This video is pretty straight forward in it's approach to finding a vacuum leak. On thing I might mention is that not all vacuum leaks are at the engine, some HVAC systems run on vacuum and can cause a leak under the dash in some cases so don't forget to look there. I've even seen vacuum operated door locks, that would be fun to find. Just be sure to be careful spraying flammable stuff on a hot engine, you don't want to take one problem and make it a whole lot worse. Stay dirty ETCG

Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information.  EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video.  Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result.  Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.

http://www.ericthecarguy.com/
As I said in the video I do get a lot of questions regarding engine performance, the power balance test is very helpful at nailing down an engine miss should you have one. I hope to cover the coil pack ignition systems at some point in the future as the opportunity presents itself, sorry I don't have it for you hear now but I will post it as soon as I get the opportunity. Thanks for watching.

Stay dirty

ETCG

Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information.  EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video.  Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result.  Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.

http://www.ericthecarguy.com/
I actually had fun putting this one together for you since the car I was working on didn't cooperate it made it so I could show you real world problems as they happened, very cool. I think this one is pretty self explanatory so I will save a long explanation. In case you missed the link to the "Bleeding a Cooling System" here is a link for you



Also many have mentioned that the water pump could also be the source of an overheat so here is a link to a video I did covering that subject.



Stay dirty

Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information.  EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video.  Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result.  Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.

In support of his efforts, we'll be embedding his videos for you.

We think that he'll get a little compesation from youtube for the advertising.

So we're happy to support his work by sharing this with you.

For more info, check out his youtube channel or http://ericthecarguy.com/ .

In support of his efforts, we'll be embedding his videos for you.

We think that he'll get a little compesation from youtube for the advertising.

So we're happy to support his work by sharing this with you.

For more info, check out his youtube channel or http://ericthecarguy.com/ .

http://www.ericthecarguy.com/
Here is the second offering from last weeks set of videos. The most important thing to note with this is that oil pressure is not created by the pump but rather the resistance to the outlet flow of that pump and part of that resistance is the clearances between the bearings and the other parts inside the engine. If nothing else I hope you are entertained, enjoy!

Stay dirty

ETCG

Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information.  EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video.  Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result.  Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.

It's no secret that we are fans of eric the car guy.

In support of his efforts, we'll be embedding his videos for you.

For more info, check out his youtube channel or http://ericthecarguy.com/ .

http://www.ericthecarguy.com/


Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information.  EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video.  Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result.  Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.

Engineguy has jsut added thousands more engines and transmissions to the site.

Finding the engine you need at the right price is easier than ever.

EG

Rolls-Royce today unveiled the world's first jet engine to be made entirely of Lego at the opening of Farnborough International Airshow. The engine, which is one of the most complex Lego structures ever built, is a half size replica of the Rolls-Royce Trent 1000 which powers the Boeing 787 Dreamliner aircraft.

The one of a kind Lego structure shows the complex inner workings of a jet engine and took four people eight weeks to complete. Including 152,455 Lego bricks, the engine weighs 307 kg and is over 2 meters long and 1.5 meters wide. Over 160 separate engine components were built and joined together in order to replicate a real jet engine. Everything from the large fan blades which suck air into the engine down to the combustion chambers where fuel is burned, had to be analysed and replicated using the world famous building blocks.     

The engine is part of a display in the Innovation Zone at Farnborough International Airshow, an area designed to engage young people in science, technology, engineering and maths.

Paul Stein, Rolls-Royce, Chief Scientific Officer, said: "Engineers have critical roles to play in solving the challenges of tomorrow, not least designing aircraft engines that will power people to the furthest corners of the world more efficiently.

We are delighted to showcase this Lego engine, the first of its kind in the world, and we are very pleased some of our own graduates and apprentices have contributed to building it, ensuring it is as realistic as possible. What we do is exciting and we hope that this representation of our technology will help to enthuse and inspire the potential scientists and engineers of the future about the career opportunities they could pursue."

A team of graduates and apprentices from Rolls-Royce used their knowledge of the Trent 1000 engine to work with the company Bright Bricks, experts in Lego, to produce the immensely complex structure.

Ben Russell, Rolls-Royce, Higher Technical Apprentice said: "This is been such an exciting project to be a part of and something I never imagined I'd get to do. Working as an apprentice in a high tech company like Rolls-Royce gives you the opportunity to learn about some of the most fascinating and advanced products in the world and I hope our Lego engine will show others how exciting a career in engineering can be."

More at Rolls Royce (link)

Another valuable DIY lesson courtesy of Mobil1's DIY Page.

Find the original here (Link)

Degree of Difficulty
Easy

Estimated Time
90 minutes

Open your hood and what do you see? If you’re like most car owners, the first thing you see is not the gleaming marvel of mechanical engineering you saw in the showroom all those years ago, but a greasy, dusty, filthy brown blob. You don’t dare touch it lest its grime infect you. The “blob effect” is normal and nothing to be ashamed of. The engine room is a dirty place to live. It’s open to the elements and exposed to dust, moisture, and fluid spills and sprays. It takes only a year or two of all-season driving to turn even the most handsome new engine filthy. What can be done about it? A coin-operated power wash is the easiest solution, but not the best one. Spraying water into the engine compartment under the high pressure found at typical coin-operated car washes can damage fragile components, force water into electrical connectors, and even contaminate the oil if it leaks past filler caps or dipsticks. If you want to hose down your engine, spray a mild household degreaser such as Formula 409, let it sit for a few minutes, set the nozzle on your garden hose to create a gentle mist, and use that to wash off the cleaning fluid. Then run the engine so the heat evaporates the water out of crevices where rust would otherwise form. Still not happy with the way it looks? Here’s a job that will make your motor sparkle, give you some peace of mind as to the engine’s condition, and provide you with a fascinating glimpse into its inner workings. And it requires relatively little time and money. Veteran shade-tree mechanics will have done this job many times, but for novices, it can be a relatively risk-free and rewarding way to get to know your motor and make it shine. Cams, Rockers, and Rollers Many new cars have a plastic cover on top of the engine. This cover blocks sound and neatens up the engine compartment. If this applies to you, removing the cam/rocker covers to shine them up may be pointless, as the acoustic cover hides everything. If there is no acoustic cover, or you want to take off the cam/rocker covers anyway, then read on. On the very top of the cylinder head is a sort of oblong dome secured to the cylinder head by a significant number of small bolts or screws. If your engine is an inline-4 or inline-6, there will be one dome. If the engine is a vee-configuration, such as a V-6 or V-8, there will be two of these domes, or one capping each cylinder bank. This component can be made of stamped steel, cast aluminum, or plastic, and it goes by many names: cam cover, rocker cover, rocker-arm cover, rocker box, and valve cover. These names are often used interchangeably, but each name actually refers to a specific engine type. Example: “Cam covers” are found on overhead-cam engines, because the cover is actually covering the cam shaft and its cam lobes. “Rocker arm cover” refers to an overhead valve pushrod engine such as the new Chrysler Hemi or the venerable Chevrolet small-block V-8. In these engines, the camshaft is deep in the block but the rocker arms, set in motion by the pushrods, sit on top of the cylinder head and lift the valves. From now on, we’ll refer to these domes as cam/rocker covers. The inside of a cam/rocker cover is a hot, oily place. As the engine runs, oil is fed under pressure to the moving components to keep them lubricated, and then slung by those components in every direction, draining back to the engine’s oil sump via holes in the cylinder head. Some good reasons to remove the cam/rocker cover, besides making it look pretty: if you have oil weeping from the cover-to-head seal, or if you have just purchased the car and don’t know its maintenance history.

Going Under Cover Step 1 Before you start, purchase a replacement gasket set and some sealant. See step eleven for details. Step 2 Get the service manual and open it to the requisite page. Every engine is different, and you’ll want a reference guide to show you things. Do you know the proper torque value and the torque pattern for the cover bolts? If not, get the manual. Many municipal libraries have complete collections for check-out. Step 3 Always disconnect the battery before starting any engine work. Remove anything that may be in the way of the cam/rocker cover coming out. Those items may include the PCV hoses, throttle cables, spark plug wires, and the air cleaner hoses and housing. Label every hose and wire with colored tape or a paint pen, as you may forget what goes where when you’re all done.

Step 4 Undo the fasteners holding on the cam cover and put them in a dish for safekeeping. This may require some unexpected tools, such as deep sockets or thin-wall sockets. Modern engine compartments are cramped, forcing engineers to get creative with how they arrange the fasteners. If the cam cover won’t budge, do another check around to see if you missed a bolt.

Step 5 If you’re very lucky, the cam cover will pop right off. If it has been there a long time or was put on with an adhesive sealant, the job of removing it may get tough. Try tapping it gently with a rubber mallet all around the base of the cover. Never use a metal hammer, as you will dent a stamped-steel cover or crack a plastic or aluminum cover. Tap close to a corner, where the seal will be the weakest. If you lift the cover in the corner, get a flat object such as a broad screwdriver or paint scraper (or an actual hook-shaped seal remover, if you have one) underneath and work it around the gasket as you lift up. Work slowly and cautiously. A screwdriver can easily gouge and permanently damage a soft aluminum cylinder head casting. Apply only gentle pressure until it is off. This could take a while.

Step 6 It’s off! Now behold the clockwork innards of your engine, which may be seeing daylight for the first time since it was built. If your engine is overhead cam, you’ll see one (called a single overhead-cam) or two (a double overhead-cam) long, straight shafts with what look like eggs stuck on them. These are the camshafts and cam lobes which open the valves. At one end of the camshafts will be a sprocket for the timing chain or timing belt. Now is the time to inspect the cams and valve gear for wear. You won’t be able to see normal wear, which happens in the thousandths of inch, but you can look for obvious trouble signs. Those include burnt cam lobes, spalling (flaking) of the lobe’s hardened surface or pitting of the lobe. All of these are signs of advanced cam wear, which will have to be addressed by a professional mechanic.

Step 7 If your engine has solid or non-self-adjusting valve lifters, this would be a good time to check clearances and adjust the valves. All engines are built with a certain amount of slop, or space, between the tappets – which press the valves open – and the actual valve stems. As an engine ages, the valves recede into their seats, closing that gap. Most new cars have self-adjusting valve lifters. If yours doesn’t, check your shop manual for the correct procedure on how to check and adjust. Depending on the car, this may be one job for the pro mechanic. Note: do not run the engine with the cam cover off. Oil will fly everywhere. Step 8 If you’re working outside or in a dusty place, take a drycleaner bag or garbage bag and put it over the exposed cylinder head to keep grit from getting in the engine. Step 9 Clean the cam/rocker cover. Use an old deep-dish baking pan or a disposable aluminum foil turkey pan from the grocery store and pour in a few cups of mineral spirits or lacquer thinner (both available by the gallon at home stores) to dissolve the grease. Wearing chemical-resistant gloves to protect your skin and safety glasses to protect your eyes, clean the cover inside and out with an old toothbrush or paint brush. If the cover is aluminum, don’t use a steel brush, as it will gouge the aluminum. A brass brush or a stiff-bristle brush and a plastic scraper is good for removing the old baked-on gasket. Properly dispose of solvents. The best way is your city’s household hazardous waste drop-off site, which is usually free.

Step 10 After the cover is degreased, it’s time to decide if you want to paint it, replace it with an aftermarket cover, or just stick it back on. If you paint the outside of the cover, you’ll have to further clean the cover to remove all trace of oils and residues from the degreasing agent. Most auto parts stores sell a pre-paint degreaser that does not leave a residue. Use a clean cloth, and don’t touch the cover with your hands as even the natural oils on your fingertips can cause the paint to “fish-eye.” Most auto parts stores sell a variety of colors and finishes in spray cans. Options: paint the cover the same color as the body. Paint it red. Paint it black with the manufacturer’s logo polished up or hand-painted in red. Krylon markets a line of spray-on wrinkle finishes that will give your cam covers the same look as a Ferrari’s. For best results with wrinkle paint, follow the direction on the can to the letter. Plastic covers will be harder to paint. You must use a paint that is compatible with plastic, such as hobby enamel, though it may not wear as well over time.

Step 11 Time to reinstall the cover. You will have purchased a gasket for it already. The gasket may be made out of cork, paper, or pre-formed silicon. The latter is by far the best, though it costs the most. If the auto parts store gives you the option, consider spending the extra money on a pre-formed silicon gasket. They are molded to fit the shape of your cover, often have steel bolt eyes in them that prevent over-torque of the bolts, and do not require a gasket dressing. Step 12 Reinstall the fasteners and reattach the loose hoses and cables.

Here are some tips:

Picking a gasket dressing is a whole article in itself, as there are literally hundreds of varieties. Your basic choices come down to RTV (room-temperature vulcanization, a type of silicone which comes out as soft goo but hardens to a firm, rubberized cement), and a non-curing silicone gel such Permatex-brand Hylomar. Some, such as Loctite 515 and 518, require a separate activator or curing agent. Which one you choose will depend on what sort of design your cam/rocker cover is, what gasket you have, and how often you plan to remove it. Some sealants are better at filling big gaps, some are more flexible and work better with dissimilar metals, which tend to heat-expand at different rates. Shop around, and use the application chart on the packaging to help you pick. Also, go to the sealant maker’s Web site or call the company’s 800-number tech line. Recently, some sealant makers have come out with quick-setting all-in-one silicone sealants that cure very quickly. There are still choices. Permatex, for example, makes a convenient quick-set silicone called “The Right Stuff” which comes in both domestic and import-car flavors, the latter being thicker to withstand the higher torque settings commonly found on small import engines.

Whatever you do, don’t assume that all sealants are created equal. That silicone sealant you used to such good effect around your bathtub will melt in the heat of an engine bay. Likewise, a water-pump sealant may not stand up to the acids in motor oil. Cork is the oldest kind of gasket, invented before technology provided better alternatives. Using contact cement available at the home store, brush the cement on the cover-side of the cork gasket only and on the cover itself. Then glue the gasket to the cam/rocker cover. Let it cure. That will secure the gasket to in place, preventing it from sliding around. It will also make the gasket easier to remove later. Use an over-the-counter dressing such as RTV to seal the gasket to the cylinder head. When applying dressing, carefully lay a thin (no wider than ¼-inch) bead around the gasket. Be sure to stay inside of the bolt holes so that the bolts themselves will be sealed, but don’t stray too close to the inner edge or the sealant will be pushed out in thick balls or beads that could break off and clog the oiling system. Many sealants are available in caulking-gun applicator tubes. A caulk gun gives you much better control over the bead size and placement. Be sure to read and faithfully follow the directions of the gasket dressing. Some silicone formulas, for example, require a cure time before the parts can be joined. If they are fitted up prematurely, the sealant won’t work. Others have no cure time at all, or a wait time between when you join the parts and actually torque the fasteners down. Don’t panic if no gasket is available. A single bead of RTV has kept many cam/rocker covers leak-free for thousands of miles. The key to no-gasket sealing is cleaning the mating surfaces. They must be absolutely free of oils and chemical residues for the sealant to hold. Brake cleaner, available at the auto parts store, will do the job. Scrub the mating surfaces with a clean cloth doused in brake cleaner. After that, don’t touch them with bare hands, or you’ll contaminate the surfaces. Apply the sealant as per directions. Do not over-torque the bolts! Follow your manual’s instructions for the torque values and bolt-tightening pattern. Most cam/rocker covers are held on by many small fasteners which do not want more than 10 to 15 pound-feet of torque applied to them. If you have a long-handle ratchet, hold it closer to the socket end or you may over-tighten without realizing it. Over-tightening bolts could break them, strip the threads, or crush the gasket so much that leak paths are created. It’s better to tighten each bolt a little bit and then move on to the next one, rather than tightening each bolt fully. The cover has to clamp down uniformly to provide a good seal.

Found this on Mobil1's DIYsite. Lots of information (find the original here):

Degree of Difficulty
Moderate

Estimated Time
120 minutes

Solving Cylinder Leakage Problems -   An internal combustion engine makes power by first drawing air and fuel into the combustion chamber. Next is the compression of the mixture and the addition of a spark. The harnessing of the resulting contained explosion is ultimately what powers the car. As an engine gets on in miles, the containment of this power can be lost due to piston ring, valve, or cylinder wall wear. Engine performance will suffer as a result.

Pressure Reading A common test of an engine's ability to compress the air-fuel mixture is called an engine compression test. A pressure gauge is connected in place of the spark plug. The engine is then cranked to create a pressure reading. A compression test is a good way to check the engine’s ability of the engine to create pressure. The gauge reads the positive pressure created by the cylinder.   Loss Reading A leakdown test is a compression test in reverse. Instead of measuring the ability of the engine to create pressure, compressed air is introduced into the cylinder through the spark plug hole. One gauge on the tester measures the pressure of the air entering into the cylinder and the other measures the percentage of the air escaping—or leaking from the cylinder. The loss percentage will indicate the condition of the cylinder and overall condition of the engine.   Top Dead Center Before sending air into the engine, the cylinder being tested must be placed at top dead center. The piston must be at the top of its travel. The intake and exhaust valves must be closed. When the air is compressed into the cylinder, the leakdown tester will measure any loss of air escaping past valves or piston rings. If the cylinder is not at top dead center, air escaping past an open valve will give a false reading.   Reading Results No engine will have perfect sealing with zero percentage loss. Five to 10 percent loss indicates an engine in great to good running order. An engine between 10 and 20 percent can still run okay, but it’ll be time to keep an eye (or ear) on things. Above 20 percent loss and it may be time for a teardown and rebuild. Thirty percent? Major problems. The percent of leakage should also be consistent across the cylinders. Any great differences indicate a problem in that cylinder.

Hearing Problems Beyond getting an overall picture of engine condition, the leakdown test is an excellent way to pinpoint where engine problems are before tearing down the engine. Listening for where the air is escaping by ear can isolate the problem. Intake Valve: Air whistling out of the intake, carburetor, or throttle body indicates leak at the intake valve. Exhaust Valve: Air heard hissing out of the tailpipe, turbocharger, or exhaust manifold means an exhaust valve leak. Piston Rings: Whistling or hissing out of the PCV valve, oil filler cap hole, or dipstick tube means the air is pushing past the rings. Suspect ring or cylinder wall wear. Head Gasket: Air bubbles in engine coolant seen at the radiator filler cap could mean air escaping into the coolant past the head gasket. Cracked Cylinder Head: Bubbles in coolant or coolant being pushed up out of the radiator neck can also indicate cracks in the cylinder head or cylinder walls. Tools and Supplies You will need a compressed air source, a leakdown gauge kit, spark plug socket, basic hand tools, vehicle service manual, and a notepad to record results.

Step 1 - Remove the spark plugs and rotate the engine to put the cylinder to be tested at top dead center. Tip: insert a long screwdriver or extension into the spark plug hole and turn the engine by hand with a socket on the crankshaft. When the screwdriver stops rising or falling you're at TDC. Don't turn the engine backwards if TDC is missed. Go around again. In a four-cylinder engine, cylinders one and four and two and three are at TDC at the same time.

Step 2 - Figure out which spark plug adapter works best and connect the gauge into the hole. Put the vehicle in gear and set the parking brake to prevent the engine from turning when air is compressed into the cylinder. Start with the regulator turned counter-clockwise to zero the incoming pressure. Connect compressed air. Turn the regulator clockwise to pressurize air into the cylinder.

Step 3 - Record leakage percentage for the cylinder. Remove the oil dipstick, radiator cap, and oil filler cap. Open the throttle body or remove the air cleaner. Listen and watch. Wherever air is escaping will indicate where the problem is. Disconnect the gauge and move onto the next cylinder.

{{block type="amfinder/form" id="2"}}

In addition to the Standard Warranty, ATK offers a No Fault Warranty for 3 years/Unlimited Mileage!

We offer the NFWG ($200 extra on automotive engines/$350 on marine) which gets you free product, towing, fluids, and up to $95 per hour labor coverage!

ATK No Fault GOLD Warranty Program The No Fault GOLD Warranty (NFGW) that is offered by ATK is supplemental to the ATK Standard Limited Warranty. The NFGW is not a warranty itself, nor does it waive or modify any exclusions or limitations in the ATK Standard Warranty, except as specifically stated in this No Fault GOLD Warranty plan. TERM: The term of this No Fault GOLD Warranty plan is coextensive with the ATK Standard Warranty that covers the remanufactured engine or transmission to which this No Fault GOLD Warranty plan applies. The term begins on the date of the original product's installation, or 10 days after the product sale whichever is earliest. NFGW must be purchased from ATK at the time of sale. No provision is allowed for sale of this product after the engine or transmission purchase. Authorized repairs on claims will be reimbursed at a rate not to exceed the Mitchell Repair Manual published applicable flat rate schedule. Hourly rates for all authorized repairs will be paid in accordance with rate paid for the original installation but not to exceed $95.00 an hour. Do-it yourself repairs, repairs performed by unlicensed repair facilities, or repairs made to units not originally installed in a LARF will not be reimbursed. Labor guarantee under terms of No-Fault Warranty GOLD is limited to the first time failure of the long block assembly and in no case will the total labor under the terms of this guarantee EXCEED the Mitchell Repair Manual published applicable flat rate schedule of $95 per hour. TOWING: Towing will be reimbursed up to a maximum of $100 per occurrence. (Customer must supply a copy of the towing invoice/contract.) RENTAL: Car rental will be reimbursed up to a maximum of 5 days, up to $30 per day. (Customer must supply a copy of the rental contract.) FLUIDS: Fluid replacement at the time of warranty repair will be reimbursed up to $25.00 per occurrence. EXCLUSIONS: This No Fault GOLD Warranty plan is subject to the following exclusions: 1.) Engines used in a manner that violates the terms of the ATK Owner’s manual or used for purposes other than their original intended use. 2.) Do-it yourself engine installations INSTALLATION AND MAINTENANCE: 1.)ATK recommended installation procedures must be followed. 2.) Maintenance must conform to the original equipment manufacturer standards. You may be required to furnish proof of these services when making a claim. CLAIM PROCEDURE: 1.) If the vehicle needs repair, you must contact ATK prior to starting the work. 2.) You must bring the vehicle, either to the repair facility where the original ATK product was installed or to another licensed repair facility. 3.) When calling, have your ATK product serial number (available from the original installer and located on the engine itself) ready. 4.) Payment will not be made for any unauthorized repairs and/or replacements.

Now that is one cool car...and I got to thinking. What if I could find an XLR with a blown engine. It would likely have a salvaged title (in this hypothetical price range) and need a bit of work...but I would know that the powertrain is strong, and have the 3yr/100k mi limited warranty on the engine...

Not just cool, but affordable...I would have all the fun Cadillacs Flagship racecar without all the stress of the $80k pricetag...or whatever it retailed at in 2004.

So, if you hear about a Cadillac XLR with a Blown Engine that needs some work...email us...I'll do my best to make it a project car & post all about it.

Here's some more XLR info & a random videos I found on youtube...

The 2004 Cadillac XLR is a two seat high performance luxury roadster.

The Cadillac XLR was first displayed at the North American International Auto Show in the year 2002. It features a retractable hard top which can be opened or closed within a few seconds.

The Cadillac XLR features V8 engine with a capacity of 4565 cc. The engine delivers an output power of 320 bhp at 6400 rpm and 310 lb-ft torque at 4000 rpm. The Cadillac XLR reaches the speed of 60 mph in 5.6 seconds and the top speed is about 155 mph.

Specifications

Vehicle Type: - 2-door convertible
Configuration: - Front Engine
Engine: - V8
Capacity: - 4565 cc
Power: - 320 bhp at 6400 rpm
Torque: - 310 lb-ft at 4000 rpm
Transmission: - 5-Speed Automatic
Weight: - 3645 lbs
0-60 mph: - 5.6 sec
Top speed: - 155 mph
Price: - $74,435

Want one? Absolutely.

This might be on of the coolest Vans around...

We've followed Chris' posts on expedition portal; and seen photos of his work...

We might just have to find an E350 with a blown engine & start an EngineGuy Project Van...

And since he's selling his last project "Vanaconda," we'll post the details and a link to UjointOffroad.com

VANACONDA IS FOR SALE!!!!! These are words I honestly thought I'd never say, but now I have. The time is here for new projects, and I can't afford to have all the toys I want! I decided to create a page listing everything and I'll be posting the link on various sites. Please email me if you have any questions. chris@ujointoffroad.com

Price: $45,000
Mileage: 107K

I ordered this van new from Galpin Ford in Los Angeles. Everything I wanted, nothing I didn't. It's a 2006 E350 6.0 diesel cargo with rear AC. It came early, I actually received it in May of 2005. Work started quickly, and the van was 4wd within 8000 miles. The Vanaconda page on this site has pictures & specs of the entire build, so I'll cover more details here.

Suspension
8" UJOR conversion. 6" lift springs front & rear with a 2" block out back. Custom dual shock hoops up front with Bilstein 5160 series shocks. Single 5160's in the rear. The rear also has a custom overload airbag system that is plumbed to the cab. The front suspension has Bilstein nitrogen air bumps that were modified to have 2" of travel. Custom torsion sway bar too.

Front Axle
The front axle is a Dynatrac Pro 60 housing that was built specifically for this van. It has F550 knuckles & brakes with custom crossover steering, straight tie rod, Dynatrac free spin conversion kit, 35 spline axle shafts, PowerLock Differential, Warn Premium hubs, Lee Hydraulic Ram assist, and an ORU diff cover. Front driveshaft is a 1350CV with a 1410 yoke at the diff. New bearings & re pack @ 100K.

Rear Axle
The rear axle is a Sterling 10.5,  a new take out from a Ford Excursion. It has a Detroit locker, custom brake hard lines & u-bolt plates for the airbags. Another ORU diff cover out back.  Another 1350CV with a 1410 yoke at the diff. Axle receved new bearings @ 100K.

Maintenance
EVERY oil change has been done by me, every 5K with Motorcraft filters and either Motorcraft or Valvoline 15W40 oil. Fuel filters have been changed every 10K again with Motorcraft filters. Every tank of fuel ran thru this engine has had RBP diesel additive. The tranny has been serviced every 40K with new fluid & filters. Differential oil every 30K, along with the t-case. Coolant flush @ 60K.

Engine Mods/Repairs
At 90K this van got the 6.0 works! EGR cooler delete, turbo got a full rebuild and I cleaned the oil cooler. I also added an EGT gauge (AutoMeter Phantom) We had a custom programmer made by DP Tuner as well, with a 60Hp economy tune. The van has a 4" Stainless RBP exhaust that was installed back in 06. The van received a complete engine wiring harness at 100K.

Other Goodies
There's more! The van has a custom rear skid system that holds a Warn VTC compressor and a 12 gallon water tank with a Sur-Flo pump. 8 LED lights are under the body with a switch on the dash & they also light up when the alarm is un armed. The alarm system is an Auto Page system. The van also has satellite tracking. PIAA reverse lights. The stereo is a Kenwood flat screen with Garmin navigation, iPod hookup, DVD and Sirius Sattelite radio.

Bumpers
Front & rear bumpers are custom. The front bumper has a Warn 16.5 winch with Synthetic winch line, onboard air quick disconnect, Warn power plug, and a Rigid Industries 20" light bar. Rear bumper houses the water tank access, 7 pin trailer plug, back up camera, another air access port and a power plug.

Interior
The interior is setup for 2 person camping right now. There is plenty of storage, and a 12V plug & tie downs ready for a 50qt ARB fridge. The rear sectio of the interior has a metal stand with a Tuffy Slide out tool box and an aluminum top coated with Line-X.

Body
Front & rear fenders have been opened up for more tire clearance, and the rear lower quarter panel has a Line-X coating. There is a dent in the pass side rocker from some rock contact that is mostly covered by the prototype rock sliders. The van also currently has a prototype 5x9.5' roof rack that may r may not be on the van when it sells! Aside from that, the body is in excellent condition. Sure, there are some small scratches & imperfections here & there, it's seen a lot of travel on & off road. The van has been cleaned, clayed & waxed twice a year since new.

Wheels/Tires
Vanaconda currently has a set of 5 Mickey Thompson MTZ's (38/15.50/20) on Dick Cepek FC2 wheels (20x12) These wheels/tires have 5K on them.

Low Clearance can be a real challenge for a truck driver. Especially inexperienced drivers of rental boxtrucks seem to be quite oblivious to the warning signs and flashing "overheight" warning lights at this railroad trestle in Durham, NC. So frequently do trucks crash into the 11-foot-8 clearance trestle, that the railroad company installed a crash beam in front of it. This massive steel I-beam bears the brunt of the impact, protecting the structure that supports this fairly busy railroad track. Believe it or not - they already had to replace the beam once!

The videos of these crashes document the severity of the impact, and they show how frequently these crashes produce a real hazard for pedestrians and other vehicles.

See all available videos on my YouTube channel.

These videos are licensed under a Creative Commons License. That means you can copy them and redistribute them for non-commercial purposes. If you use my material under this license, please include this credit:
copyright Jürgen Henn - 11foot8.com

If you have any questions about this, email me at info [at] 11foot8.com

Why is the bridge so low?

This train trestle is about 100 years old. At the time when it was built, there were no standards for minimum clearance..

How often do trucks crash into the bridge?

On average, about once a month a truck gets visibly damaged at the bridge. Hoewver, every day I see trucks that trip the overheight warning lights, stop and turn into the side street.

Why don't they fix it?

Depends on who "they" are and on what "fix" means.

    Norfolk Southern Railroad owns the train trestle, and their concern is primarily with keeping the trains running and keeping them running safely. So their concern is mainly with reducing the impact of the truck crashes on the actual structure of the train trestle. As far as they are concerned, they solved that problem by installing the crash beam.
    The city of Durham has installed "low clearance" signs on each of the 3 blocks leading up to the trestle (Gregson is a one-way road). There is a "overheight when flashing" sign with flashing lights that are triggered by vehicles that are too tall. Several blocks ahead of the trestle the speed limit is 25 MPH. The folks from the city planning department said that they made an effort to prevent accidents.
    The North Carolina Dept. of Transportation maintains the road, but not the signage. I suspect they have much bigger problems to deal with statewide than this bridge.

    Can't the road be lowered?

    That would be prohibitively expensive because a sewer main runs just a few feet below the road bed. That sewer main also dates back about a hundred years and, again, at the time there were no real standards for minimum clearance for railroad underpasses.

    Can't the bridge be raised?

    Here, too, the question is who would want to pay the millions of dollars to raise the tracks a couple of feet? To accomplish this, the grade of the tracks would have to changed on both sides of the trestle, probably for several miles. That would require rebuilding all trestles in Durham. And NS would have to shut down this busy track for months. I don't think they are interested in that idea.

    Is the signeage inadequate?

    The signeage is pretty good. Large signs alert driver to the low clearance several blocks before the bridge. Overheight vehicles trip a light switch that turns on flashing warning lights.right at the bridge.

    Should there be more signeage?

    It's hard to see how more "low-clearance" signs will significantly improve the situation. But maybe a different kind of signeage would get the driver's attention.

    Could they install a low-clearance bar?

    A low clearance bar is a bar suspended by chains ahead of the bridge. Overheight vehicles hit that bar first and the noise alerts the driver to to the problem. I understand that this approach has been successful in other places, but it's not practical here. There are many overheight trucks that have to be able to drive right up to the bridge and turn onto Peabody St. in order to deliver supplies to several restaurants. Making Peabody St inaccessible from Gregson St would make the restaurant owners and the delivery drivers very unhappy.

    Why are they using yellow flashing lights?

    Warning lights have to be yellow according to the NC traffic laws.

    Are the drivers stupid?

    No idea. They certainly seem distracted and the rental truck drivers are also probably inexperienced.

    Will insurance cover the damages?

    Most truck rental insurance policies specifically exclude overhead damage from coverage..

    Any other questions?

    If you have any truck-crash-related questions that are not covered here, post them on my YouTube Channel

Just FYI, our 3.0L Vulcan Longblock for a 1999 Ranger w/ 3yr/100,000 mile limited warranty & produced in ISO 9002,14001, QS-9000 750,000 sq. ft facility comes in at about $1500, shipped. 

Found this discussion on the Ford Ranger Forum. (Link)

There are lot of opinions out there when it comes to remanufactured engines.

As such, we do our best to inform you about them.

[begin quote of discussion forum]

Here's what Boomkeg was quoted: posted 10-27-2011, 01:37 PM

Well, after doing some calling around here are the quotes that I received:

 Motorcraft reman through local Ford dealership: $2,590 (after core return) includes tin work

 Jasper: $2,607 (after core return) includes tin work

 Rydell Powertrain: $1995 (after core return) doesn't include tin work.

Here's how the discussion went:

Boomkeg                 

Join Date: Sep 2011

Posts: 19

Default Jasper vs Rydell Powertrain Remans

Good eve! I'm gonna be ordering my 3.0 flex long block this week and wanted to see if anyone here had any experience with either Jasper or Rydell Powertrain remanufactured engines. I got a quote from Rydell for $1995 shipped to my door and I'll get $125 of that back for returning my old engine. I haven't gotten a quote for a Jasper engine yet, but I just found out that a friend of the family knows a guy who knows a guy..... might be able to get a decent deal on a Jasper. Both have 3 year, 100,000 mile warrantees.

Any info about either would be greatly appreciated! Cheers

  #2 

Old 10-19-2011, 07:46 PM

Nitrofan1                 

Default Re: Jasper vs Rydell Powertrain Remans

Jasper has always had a good rep. Rydell? Never heard of em. I'm leery of ordering something that expensive without local support unless they have outstanding reviews for quality & service.

3 years 100,000 is good. 3 years unlimited is better. I've sold ATK engines for years and have had only one replacement ordered. Most issues are parts replacement fixes. ATK is sold through Advance Auto and other parts stores. This way you have a local contact if needed plus there's no shipping cost and you return your core to them.

  #3 

Old 10-19-2011, 08:02 PM

RAT Ranger

Post Re: Jasper vs Rydell Powertrain Remans

JASPER is JUNK! I wouldn't buy a lawn mower engine from em with my experience withem. And I too haven't ever heard of Rydell and agree with checkin out Advance Auto Parts or NAPA. Recon used to do the remans for Advance, but that was 10+yrs ago when I worked for them. NAPA used to have Marshall remans, good reports on them.

You even check into a Motorcraft reman? We can usually get within a few dollars of any of the aftermarket places & I personally would rather get factory reman than aftermarket if prices are close. Just my 02!

  #4 

Old 10-24-2011, 06:20 PM

Boomkeg

Default Re: Jasper vs Rydell Powertrain Remans

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nitrofan1 View Post

Jasper has always had a good rep. Rydell? Never heard of em. I'm leery of ordering something that expensive without local support unless they have outstanding reviews for quality & service.

3 years 100,000 is good. 3 years unlimited is better. I've sold ATK engines for years and have had only one replacement ordered. Most issues are parts replacement fixes. ATK is sold through Advance Auto and other parts stores. This way you have a local contact if needed plus there's no shipping cost and you return your core to them.

Right on, thanks! I'll give Advance a call tomorrow. I couldn't find anything other than an Edelbrock 383 on their website... WHICH WOULD BE SCHWEEEET!!! However, $10,000 was a little more than I was lookin to spend.

Quote:

Originally Posted by RAT Ranger View Post

JASPER is JUNK! I wouldn't buy a lawn mower engine from em with my experience withem. And I too haven't ever heard of Rydell and agree with checkin out Advance Auto Parts or NAPA. Recon used to do the remans for Advance, but that was 10+yrs ago when I worked for them. NAPA used to have Marshall remans, good reports on them.

You even check into a Motorcraft reman? We can usually get within a few dollars of any of the aftermarket places & I personally would rather get factory reman than aftermarket if prices are close. Just my 02!

I'm definitely with you on buying factory reman over aftermarket. According to the website, they're listing it as about $2,700. I'm gonna call the Ford dealership down in my town and see if they can come down on that price at all... might just be the list price.

Thanks for the help guys! Got the old engine yanked out today and returned it to get my money back. Em-effers sold it to me with a rod knock. Anyone in Connecticut, don't ever deal with the yard Chuck & Eddie's.

  #5 

Old 10-26-2011, 02:08 PM

dvrich

Default Re: Jasper vs Rydell Powertrain Remans

Quote:

Originally Posted by RAT Ranger View Post

JASPER is JUNK! I wouldn't buy a lawn mower engine from em with my experience withem. And I too haven't ever heard of Rydell and agree with checkin out Advance Auto Parts or NAPA. Recon used to do the remans for Advance, but that was 10+yrs ago when I worked for them. NAPA used to have Marshall remans, good reports on them.

You even check into a Motorcraft reman? We can usually get within a few dollars of any of the aftermarket places & I personally would rather get factory reman than aftermarket if prices are close. Just my 02!

If you think Jasper is junk then you never owned one or knew anyone who owned one. I would take a Jasper over a motorcraft Fred Jones reman any day.

This is the first time I ever heard someone knocking Jasper engines...probably the last time too.

Jasper is top dollar and you get what you pay for.

  #6 

Old 10-27-2011, 01:37 PM

Boomkeg

 Default Re: Jasper vs Rydell Powertrain Remans

Well, after doing some calling around here are the quotes that I received:

Motorcraft reman through local Ford dealership: $2,590 (after core return) includes tin work

Jasper: $2,607 (after core return) includes tin work

Rydell Powertrain: $1995 (after core return) doesn't include tin work.

I can't find any reviews about Rydell anywhere on the internet, which sketches me out. Plus, as far as I can tell they don't have any local support - so they're out.

When I talked to the rep from Jasper, he mentioned the fact that they've beefed up and improved a couple of notorious trouble spots on the engine. That's making me want to go with Jasper over a Motorcraft factory reman... especially since the difference in price is +/- $20.....

Thanks for the input guys. Any other reviews / recommendations would be greatly appreciated!

  #7 

Old 10-28-2011, 07:18 PM

RAT Ranger

Arrow Re: Jasper vs Rydell Powertrain Remans

Quote:

Originally Posted by dvrich View Post

If you think Jasper is junk then you never owned one or knew anyone who owned one. I would take a Jasper over a motorcraft Fred Jones reman any day.

This is the first time I ever heard someone knocking Jasper engines...probably the last time too.

Jasper is top dollar and you get what you pay for.

=========================

As a matter of fact I do have commercial customers that REGRET buyin Jasper crap, and I LAUGH at the Jasper Rep. & toss his business card into the trash can everytime he comes to our dealer tryin to pawn off his JUNK to us! Why in the world would I sell Jasper JUNK over factory reman (Motorcraft) to one of my customers? GIVE ME A BREAK, Dude!!!

You can spend all of your money you want on that "top dollar" Jasper JUNK!

And also, Fred Jones is just a seller, they don't build them. Always used DES & Hesco, but when Hesco closed & FJ bought out DES, then we had no choice. I'm no fan of FJ, but they are the lone supplier now.

  #8 

Old 10-29-2011, 01:26 AM

Boomkeg

Default Re: Jasper vs Rydell Powertrain Remans

Quote:

Originally Posted by RAT Ranger View Post

=========================

As a matter of fact I do have commercial customers that REGRET buyin Jasper crap, and I LAUGH at the Jasper Rep. & toss his business card into the trash can everytime he comes to our dealer tryin to pawn off his JUNK to us! Why in the world would I sell Jasper JUNK over factory reman (Motorcraft) to one of my customers? GIVE ME A BREAK, Dude!!!

You can spend all of your money you want on that "top dollar" Jasper JUNK!

And also, Fred Jones is just a seller, they don't build them. Always used DES & Hesco, but when Hesco closed & FJ bought out DES, then we had no choice. I'm no fan of FJ, but they are the lone supplier now.

Well, you've obviously had a bad experience with them. Would you mind elaborating on what happened and what classifies Jasper engines as "junk"? I've done a lot of searching and can only find a handful of complaints out of hundreds of reviews... and in most of those cases, the problem was solved fairly quickly and without having to jump through hoops. The majority of the reviews are glowing...

  #9 

Old 10-30-2011, 06:43 AM

RAT Ranger

Post Re: Jasper vs Rydell Powertrain Remans

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boomkeg View Post

Well, you've obviously had a bad experience with them. Would you mind elaborating on what happened and what classifies Jasper engines as "junk"? I've done a lot of searching and can only find a handful of complaints out of hundreds of reviews... and in most of those cases, the problem was solved fairly quickly and without having to jump through hoops. The majority of the reviews are glowing...

===============================

I personally have never bought anythin Jasper, as I build my own, but do have commercial account customers that have had experiences, and those are what I'm referencin to.

If you build your own engines or are familiar with what goes into a build, then you will understand what I'm bout to reference to.

A person brings a vehicle in needin to be rebuilt & the engines are out of warranty. So they've torn them down to find some cylinders are std, some 10 over, some 20 over, some crank journals bein std, some 10 under, some 20 under. I honestly don't know how the engine didn't vibrate itself to death.

That IMO is JUNK! Yes, I hear bout Jaspers great warranties, and that may be how they've gotten by with it, if they just replace the motor before its torn down to expose their methods.

The OP was askin for opinions on reman companys, so I'm just givin my experiences.

NOT lookin to get into a pissin contest.

Last edited by RAT Ranger; 10-30-2011 at 06:45 AM. Reason: /

  #10 

Old 10-30-2011, 06:58 AM

djfllmn

Default Re: Jasper vs Rydell Powertrain Remans

just go with an OE replacement motor

  #11 

Old 10-30-2011, 07:13 AM

TomAz

Default Re: Jasper vs Rydell Powertrain Remans

I had a Jasper put in by a NAPA shop at their recommendation. Had major oil usage problems immediately. NAPA ordered a new engine, took about a week. They got me a rental car and of course all was covered by warranty. The second engine was good and tight. Took a few thousand miles to break in and get decent mileage. But all in all I am pleased with the engine and service. Had to go back for a few adjustments like hose leaks. I would go Jasper again, but I would shop price for a recon Motorcraft. Good luck with your new engine. I now have about 10 k miles on it.

  #12 

Old 10-30-2011, 07:57 AM

Nibis

Default Re: Jasper vs Rydell Powertrain Remans

I put a Jasper Class 1 Perfomance 350 in my 72 442 years ago, it was a great engine.

It is true that they research out problem areas of engines and improve them, it's in their best intrest since they are covering their workmanship.

My dad has worked in the school bus transportation management field for over 25 years and they use Jasper engines, and I've only heard of 2 times that they had a problem and Jasper took care of it right away.

Bottom line is that I would buy Jasper again.

Are you installing it yourself?? The install on my 442 was easy and if I had problems, it would have been easy for me to R&R, but I don't think I would want to do it with a modern engine.

If you have it installed and have problems, they have to make it right, and you keep your hands clean

  #13 

Old 10-30-2011, 08:18 AM

jimsmowin

Default Re: Jasper vs Rydell Powertrain Remans

my son's sport trac has 4.0 jasper in it, about 4000 mi on it with no promblems so far

  #14 

Old 10-30-2011, 08:19 AM

dtownboy_Erk

Default Re: Jasper vs Rydell Powertrain Remans

i have heard nothing but good reviews about jasper engines all of my local shops use them when they have to replace a motor. My brothers father in law put one into his F 150 about 5 years ago and has never had a problem with it and he abuses the crap out of his truck.

[end quote of discussion forum]

join the discussion at the ranger forum

Here are some of the comments from youtube:

• Actually sir you are WRONG !! I did return this motor and got another 3.4 with low miles that came out a pontiac montana van. Same motor just a few brackets to change. and yes I did redo the intake gaskets before I put it in my Grand Am ! I do know alot about this Gm motor I've owned three of them in my life. Two impala's and 1 Grand Am and My opion is they are a good motor. The Montana motor I put in Grand Am was and still is an excellent motor VERY fast ! Car ! and still is My buddy has it !

  davieboy1970 1 year ago

• Amazing why you didn't notice the many faults you claim it had when you examined it before buying! obviously more to the story. Maybe you put the rubbish bits on it from your car, then took it back to get them for free!

  urbex2007 1 year ago

• First of all I dont remember you being there ! So how can you say such rude comments. I did inspect the motor before I bought it. But you also have to take into consideration that I was buying a motor from a good friend that owned the junk yard so I had to have some trust that they were selling me a good motor. When I returned the motor they told me they tested it. and that the damage may have happend while pulling it out of the car. they gave me my money back with apologies.

  davieboy1970 in reply to urbex2007 1 year ago

• Ah yeah long done already. I've already had two motors in this car since this video was done. But thanks for the comments and also the one about the exhaust. Yeah that is a strange system for sure.

  davieboy1970 3 years ago

• oh, and just to rectify, the guy i traded the ford to knew it had transmission problems, i told him the truth ,but he still wanted the trade anyhow lol...the corolla was an fx-16 corolla too, with the 5 speed

  sansuiman100 in reply to sansuiman100 (Show the comment) 3 weeks ago

• believe me , i know, i did the gasket jobs o n both my 3400 and my 3100...i later sold my 3400, before that i junked my one with the quad 4 {900.00 for a used motor, and i already put a motor in the car when i bought it, lasted 9 months and blew up the 2nd one...bye bye lol} and i still have my 97 gt coupe with the 3100....ill keep it as lo ng as i can, everything under the hood is pretty much new now, and it is a solid runner

  sansuiman100 in reply to digmynewsocks (Show the comment) 3 weeks ago

• I see why you are upset, but the odds are that the motor IS good. Just because the cover is cracked doesn't mean they didn't start the motor. Did they check for leaks, probably not, probably had no coolant in it due to where the car was probably hit. 99% of the time you get a junkyard motor....be prepared to just long block it.... take it down inspect everything, use everything you can off your motor that you know was good.

  andrew1991pgt 1 month ago

• agreed, the quad 4 sucks. as far as the 3100 or the 3400 they are a decent engine if as you say, they are maintained properly, and you get the intake gasket done. if you owned these cars you know what im talkin about. gm had horrible probs. with this issue in the 90s. did my daughters lumina at 90,000 miles and my grand am GT (which i still own along side my honda) at 87,000, but she still runs strong at 111,000 miles. btw, good trade on the corolla, i think that guy got burned! lmao

  digmynewsocks in reply to sansuiman100 (Show the comment) 1 month ago

• Changing the timing cover does not take that long.I dropped in a 1998 3100 in 2001 Malibu.Had to change the timing cover and intake.Does not hurt to change the intake gaskets at the same time.Book shows the 3400 differant in the minivan and the cars which is not true,drops in place.

  wafrederick 1 month ago

• Ford sucks,Most used engines hard to find are Fords.The 4.6 and 5.4 tritons are $1,500.00 a piece if you can find one.Same with the 2000 to 2004 2.0 sohc vin P in the focus and escort which is a completely pile of shit is $1,200.00 if you can find one.Drops valve seats and does damage,I have done at least 3 so far.Most yards ask for the 8th vin when finding a 4.6.There are 3 differant 4.6s,Romeo,Windsor and the police interceptor.Parts don't interchange on these 4.6s

  wafrederick in reply to Fordpowerules (Show the comment) 1 month ago

• ive owned two fords in my life, and never again, they were the worst goddamn cars i have ever owned....the second one i owned, i traded it to a guy i knew for a toyota corolla, two weeks later, the ford burned to the ground on the highway I also have owned three grand ams, a 1999 with the 3400, a 1994 with the 2.4 quad 4, and a 1997 gt with the 3100 in it The quad 4 is a junk motor, no doubt, but the 3100 and 3400 are GOOD motors IF MAINTAINED PROPERLY

  sansuiman100 in reply to digmynewsocks (Show the comment) 1 month ago

• Hes out to make a dishonest buck. sorry it happen to you.

  paynee1010 2 months ago

• I had a 1989 Ford Taurus that ran for years with a similar (albeit smaller) hairline crack in the block. I continued to maintain the engine in that state. From a cold start, as the coolant would heat (and expand) it would just gush water (right onto the cat...can you say steam?) but once the block heated up it would seal and stop leaking. I didn't swap the engine because of severe rust issues on the unibody. It was a sad day when the subframe mounts finally failed.

  namesolonggood1sgone 2 months ago

• motor came from a wrecked car and was resold without proper inspection by the seller. To add, If I were to replace a whole motor anyway (3.4L), might as well go all in a get one that is rebuilt, that way you know it's all good. $1800 but

Quoted from EPI-ENG.COM :

- Power and Torque -

ESSENTIAL CONCEPTS:
Torque is measured; Power is calculated

In order to discuss powerplants in any depth, it is essential to understand the concepts of POWER and TORQUE.

HOWEVER, in order to understand POWER, you must first understand ENERGY and WORK.

If you have not reviewed these concepts for a while, it would be helpful to do so before studying this article. CLICK HERE for a quick review of Energy and Work.

It often seems that people are confused about the relationship between POWER and TORQUE. For example, we have heard engine builders, camshaft consultants, and other technical experts ask customers:

"Do you want your engine to make HORSEPOWER or TORQUE?"

And the question is usually asked in a tone which strongly suggests that these experts believe power and torque are somehow mutually exclusive.

In fact, the opposite is true, and you should be clear on these facts:

1. POWER (the rate of doing WORK) is dependent on TORQUE and RPM.
2. TORQUE and RPM are the MEASURED quantities of engine output.
3. POWER is CALCULATED from torque and RPM, by the following equation:

HP = Torque x RPM ÷ 5252

(At the bottom of this page, the derivation of that equation is shown, for anyone interested.)

An engine produces POWER by providing a ROTATING SHAFT which can exert a given amount of TORQUE on a load at a given RPM. The amount of TORQUE the engine can exert usually varies with RPM.

TORQUE

TORQUE is defined as a FORCE around a given point, applied at a RADIUS from that point. Note that the unit of TORQUE is one pound-foot (often misstated), while the unit of WORK is one foot-pound.

Figure 1

Referring to Figure 1, assume that the handle is attached to the crank-arm so that it is parallel to the supported shaft and is located at a radius of 12" from the center of the shaft. In this example, consider the shaft to be fixed to the wall. Let the arrow represent a 100 lb. force, applied in a direction perpendicular to both the handle and the crank-arm, as shown.

Because the shaft is fixed to the wall, the shaft does not turn, but there is a torque of 100 pounds-feet (100 pounds times 1 foot) applied to the shaft.

Note that if the crank-arm in the sketch was twice as long (i.e. the handle was located 24" from the center of the shaft), the same 100 pound force applied to the handle would produce 200 lb-ft of torque (100 pounds times 2 feet).

POWER

POWER is the measure of how much WORK can be done in a specified TIME. In the example on the Work and Energy page, the guy pushing the car did 16,500 foot-pounds of WORK. If he did that work in two minutes, he would have produced 8250 foot-pounds per minute of POWER (165 feet x 100 pounds ÷ 2 minutes). If you are unclear about WORK and ENERGY, it would be a benefit to review those concepts HERE.

In the same way that one ton is a large amount of weight (by definition, 2000 pounds), one horsepower is a large amount of power. The definition of one horsepower is 33,000 foot-pounds per minute. The power which the guy produced by pushing his car across the lot (8250 foot-pounds-per-minute) equals ¼ horsepower (8,250 ÷ 33,000).

OK, all that’s fine, but how does pushing a car across a parking lot relate to rotating machinery?

Consider the following change to the handle-and-crank-arm sketch above. The handle is still 12" from the center of the shaft, but now, instead of being fixed to the wall, the shaft now goes through the wall, supported by frictionless bearings, and is attached to a generator behind the wall.

Suppose, as illustrated in Figure 2, that a constant force of 100 lbs. is somehow applied to the handle so that the force is always perpendicular to both the handle and the crank-arm as the crank turns. In other words, the "arrow" rotates with the handle and remains in the same position relative to the crank and handle, as shown in the sequence below. (That is called a "tangential force").

Figure 2

If that constant 100 lb. tangential force applied to the 12" handle (100 lb-ft of torque) causes the shaft to rotate at 2000 RPM, then the power the shaft is transmitting to the generator behind the wall is 38 HP, calculated as follows:

100 lb-ft of torque (100 lb. x 1 foot) times 2000 RPM divided by 5252 is 38 HP.

The following examples illustrate several different values of TORQUE which produce 300 HP.

Example 1:  How much TORQUE is required to produce 300 HP at 2700 RPM?

since     HP = TORQUE x RPM ÷ 5252
            then by rearranging the equation:
TORQUE = HP x 5252 ÷ RPM

Answer: TORQUE = 300 x 5252 ÷ 2700 = 584 lb-ft.

Example 2:  How much TORQUE is required to produce 300 HP at 4600 RPM?

Answer: TORQUE = 300 x 5252 ÷ 4600 = 343 lb-ft.

Example 3:  How much TORQUE is required to produce 300 HP at 8000 RPM?

Answer: TORQUE = 300 x 5252 ÷ 8000 = 197 lb-ft.

Example 4:  How much TORQUE does the 41,000 RPM turbine section of a 300 HP gas turbine engine produce?

Answer: TORQUE = 300 x 5252 ÷ 41,000  = 38.4 lb-ft.

Example 5:  The output shaft of the gearbox of the engine in Example 4 above turns at 1591 RPM. How much TORQUE is available on that shaft?

Answer: TORQUE = 300 x 5252 ÷ 1591 = 991 lb-ft.
(ignoring losses in the gearbox, of course).

The point to be taken from those numbers is that a given amount of horsepower can be made from an infinite number of combinations of torque and RPM.

Think of it another way: In cars of equal weight, a 2-liter twin-cam engine that makes 300 HP at 8000 RPM (197 lb-ft) and 400 HP at 10,000 RPM (210 lb-ft) will get you out of a corner just as well as a 5-liter engine that makes 300 HP at 4000 RPM (394 lb-ft) and 400 HP at 5000 RPM (420 lb-ft).  In fact, in cars of equal weight, the smaller engine will probably race BETTER because it's much lighter, therefore puts less weight on the front end.  AND, in reality, the car with the lighter 2-liter engine will likely weigh less than the big V8-powered car, so will be a better race car for several reasons.

Measuring Power

A dynamometer determines the POWER an engine produces by applying a load to the engine output shaft by means of a water brake, a generator, an eddy-current absorber, or any other controllable device capable of absorbing power. The dynamometer control system causes the absorber to exactly match the amount of TORQUE the engine is producing at that instant, then measures that TORQUE and the RPM of the engine shaft, and from those two measurements, it calculates observed power. Then it applies various factors (air temperature, barometric pressure, relative humidity) in order to correct the observed power to the value it would have been if it had been measured at standard atmospheric conditions, called corrected power.

Power to Drive a Pump

In the course of working with lots of different engine projects, we often hear the suggestion that engine power can be increased by the use of a "better" oil pump. Implicit in that suggestion is the belief that a "better" oil pump has higher pumping efficiency, and can, therefore, deliver the required flow at the required pressure while consuming less power from the crankshaft to do so. While that is technically true, the magnitude of the improvement number is surprisingly small.

How much power does it take to drive a pump delivering a known flow at a known pressure? We have already shown that power is work per unit time, and we will stick with good old American units for the time being (foot-pounds per minute and inch-pounds per minute). And we know that flow times pressure equals POWER, as shown by:

Flow (cubic inches / minute) multiplied by pressure (pounds / square inch) = POWER (inch-pounds / minute)

From there it is simply a matter of multiplying by the appropriate constants to produce an equation which calculates HP from pressure times flow. Since flow is more freqently given in gallons per minute, and since it is well known that there are 231 cubic inches in a gallon, then:

Flow (GPM) x 231(cubic inches / gal) = Flow (cubic inches per minute).

Since, as explained above, 1 HP is 33,000 foot-pounds of work per minute, multiplying that number by 12 produces the number of inch-pounds of work per minute in one HP (396,000). Dividing 396,000 by 231 gives the units-conversion factor of 1714.3. Therefore, the simple equation is:

Pump HP = flow (GPM) x pressure (PSI) / 1714.

That equation represents the power consumed by a pump having 100% efficiency. When the equation is modified to include pump efficiency, it becomes:

Pump HP = (flow {GPM} x pressure {PSI} / (1714 x efficiency)

Common gear-type pumps typically operate at between 75 and 80% efficiency. So suppose your all-aluminum V8 engine requires 10 GPM at 50 psi. The oil pump will have been sized to maintain some preferred level of oil pressure at idle when the engine and oil are hot, so the pump will have far more capacity than is required to maintain the 10 GPM at 50 psi at operating speed. (That's what the "relief" valve does: bypasses the excess flow capacity back to the inlet of the pump, which, as an added benefit, also dramatically reduces the prospect cavitation in the pump inlet line.)

So suppose your 75%-efficient pump is maintaining 50 psi at operating speed, and is providing the 10 GPM needed by the engine. It is actually pumping roughly 50 GPM ( 10 of which goes through the engine, and the remaining 40 goes through the relief valve ) at 50 psi. The power to drive that pressure pump stage is:

HP = ( 50 gpm x 50 psi ) / ( 1714 x 0.75 efficiency ) = 1.95 HP

Suppose you succumb to the hype and shuck out some really big bucks for an allegedly 90% efficient pump. That pump (at the same flow and pressure) will consume:

HP = ( 50 gpm x 50 psi ) / ( 1714 x 0.90 efficiency ) = 1.62 HP.

WOW. A net gain of a full 1/3 of a HP. Can YOUR dyno even measure a 1-HP difference accurately and repeatably?

General Observations

In order to design an engine for a particular application, it is helpful to plot out the optimal power curve for that specific application, then from that design information, determine the torque curve which is required to produce the desired power curve. By evaluating the torque requirements against realistic BMEP values you can determine the reasonableness of the target power curve.

Typically, the torque peak will occur at a substantially lower RPM than the power peak. The reason is that, in general, the torque curve does not drop off (%-wise) as rapidly as the RPM is increasing (%-wise). For a race engine, it is often beneficial ( within the boundary conditions of the application ) to operate the engine well beyond the power peak, in order to produce the maximum average power within a required RPM band.

However, for an engine which operates in a relatively narrow RPM band, such as an aircraft engine, it is generally a requirement that the engine produce maximum power at the maximum RPM. That requires the torque peak to be fairly close to the maximum RPM. For an aircraft engine, you typically design the torque curve to peak at the normal cruise setting and stay flat up to maximum RPM. That positioning of the torque curve would allow the engine to produce significantly more power if it could operate at a higher RPM, but the goal is to optimize the performance within the operating range.

An example of that concept is shown Figure 3 below. The three dashed lines represent three different torque curves, each having exactly the same shape and torque values, but with the peak torque values located at different RPM values. The solid lines show the power produced by the torque curves of the same color.

Figure 3

Note that, with a torque peak of 587 lb-ft at 3000 RPM, the pink power line peaks at about 375 HP between 3500 and 3750 RPM.  With the same torque curve moved to the right by 1500 RPM (black, 587 lb-ft torque peak at 4500 RPM), the peak power jumps to about 535 HP at 5000 RPM. Again, moving the same torque curve to the right another 1500 RPM (blue, 587 lb-ft torque peak at 6000 RPM) causes the power to peak at about 696 HP at 6500 RPM

Using the black curves as an example, note that the engine produces 500 HP at both 4500 and 5400 RPM, which means the engine can do the same amount of work per unit time (power) at 4500 as it can at 5400. HOWEVER, it will burn less fuel to produce 450 HP at 4500 RPM than at 5400 RPM, because the parasitic power losses (power consumed to turn the crankshaft, reciprocating components, valvetrain) increases as the square of the crankshaft speed.

The RPM band within which the engine produces its peak torque is limited. You can tailor an engine to have a high peak torque with a very narrow band, or a lower peak torque value over a wider band. Those characteristics are usually dictated by the parameters of the application for which the engine is intended.

An example of that is shown in Figure 4 below. It is the same as the graph in Figure 3 (above), EXCEPT, the blue torque curve has been altered (as shown by the green line) so that it doesn't drop off as quickly. Note how that causes the green power line to increase well beyond the torque peak. That sort of a change to the torque curve can be achieved by altering various key components, including (but not limited to) cam lobe profiles, cam lobe separation, intake and/or exhaust runner length, intake and/or exhaust runner cross section. Alterations intended to broaden the torque peak will inevitable reduce the peak torque value, but the desirability of a given change is determined by the application.

Figure 4

Derivation of the Power Equation
(for anyone interested)

This part might not be of interest to most readers, but several people have asked:

"OK, if    HP = RPM x TORQUE ÷ 5252,   then where does the 5252 come from?"

Here is the answer.

By definition, POWER = FORCE x DISTANCE ÷ TIME

Using the example in Figure 2 above, where a constant tangential force of 100 pounds was applied to the 12" handle rotating at 2000 RPM, we know the force involved, so to calculate power, we need the distance the handle travels per unit time, expressed as:

Power = 100 pounds x distance per minute

OK, how far does the crank handle move in one minute? First, determine the distance it moves in one revolution:

DISTANCE per revolution = 2 x π x radius

DISTANCE per revolution. = 2 x 3.1416 x 1 ft = 6.283 ft.

Now we know how far the crank moves in one revolution. How far does the crank move in one minute?

DISTANCE per min. = 6.283 ft .per rev. x 2000 rev. per min. = 12,566 feet per minute

Now we know enough to calculate the power, defined as:

POWER = FORCE x DISTANCE ÷ TIME
    so
Power = 100 lb x 12,566 ft. per minute = 1,256,600 ft-lb per minute

Swell, but how about HORSEPOWER? Remember that one HORSEPOWER is defined as 33000 foot-pounds of work per minute. Therefore HP = POWER (ft-lb per min) ÷ 33,000. We have already calculated that the power being applied to the crank-wheel above is 1,256,600 ft-lb per minute.

How many HP is that?

HP = (1,256,600 ÷ 33,000) = 38.1 HP.

Now we combine some stuff we already know to produce the magic 5252. We already know that:

TORQUE = FORCE x RADIUS.

If we divide both sides of that equation by RADIUS, we get:

(a)   FORCE = TORQUE ÷ RADIUS

Now, if DISTANCE per revolution = RADIUS x 2 x π, then

(b)   DISTANCE per minute = RADIUS x 2 x π x RPM

We already know

(c)   POWER = FORCE x DISTANCE per minute

So if we plug the equivalent for FORCE from equation (a) and distance per minute from equation (b) into equation (c), we get:

POWER = (TORQUE ÷ RADIUS) x (RPM x RADIUS x 2 x π)

Dividing both sides by 33,000 to find HP,

HP = TORQUE ÷ RADIUS x RPM x RADIUS x 2 x π ÷ 33,000

By reducing, we get

HP = TORQUE x RPM x 6.28 ÷ 33,000

Since

33,000 ÷ 6.2832 = 5252

Therefore

HP = TORQUE x RPM ÷ 5252

Note that at 5252 RPM, torque and HP are equal. At any RPM below 5252, the value of torque is greater than the value of HP; Above 5252 RPM, the value of torque is less than the value of HP.

Find this and more great information at  EPI-ENG.COM :

Starting at the front of the engine, the cylinders of the left bank are numbered 1-3-5
and the cylinders of the right bank are numbered 2-4-6. The crankshaft is
supported in the engine block by four bearings. The crankshaft is counterbalanced
by the flywheel, the crankshaft balancer, and the weights cast into the crankshaft.
Additional counterbalancing is obtained from the balance shaft which rides in the
engine block above the camshaft and is driven by the camshaft. All 3800 engines
are even-firing, the cylinders fire at equal 120 degree intervals of crankshaft
rotation. The location of the crankshaft journals has been offset by 30 degrees to
fire the cylinders at 120 degree intervals of crankshaft rotation. The camshaft lobes
and timing also reflect the 120 degree intervals. The even firing crankshaft provides
an equal interval of 120 degrees between ignition of each of the cylinders
throughout the firing order. The firing order is 1-6-5-4-3-2. The aluminum alloy
pistons have slipper skirts and are cam turned. Four drilled holes or casted slots in
the oil ring grooves permit drain back of the oil collected by the oil ring. The
camshaft is supported by four bearings in the engine block and is driven by the
crankshaft through sprockets and a timing chain. The cylinder heads are cast iron
and incorporate integral valve stem guides. Right and left cylinder heads are
identical and are interchangeable, but it is good practice to reinstall the cylinder
heads on the side from which they are removed. The intake manifold is bolted to the
inner faces of both cylinder heads so it connects with all inlet ports.

Each exhaust and intake valve has a valve spring to insure positive seating
throughout the operating speed range. The valve rocker arms for each bank of the
cylinders pivot on pedestals bolted to the cylinder head. Hydraulic roller valve lifters
and tubular push rods are used to operate overhead rocker arms and valves of
both banks of the cylinders from a single camshaft. This system requires no lash
adjustment at the time of assembly or service.

Starting at the front of the engine, the cylinders of the left bank are numbered 1-3-5
and the cylinders of the right bank are numbered 2-4-6. The crankshaft is
supported in the engine block by four bearings. The crankshaft is counterbalanced
by the flywheel, the crankshaft balancer, and the weights cast into the crankshaft.
Additional counterbalancing is obtained from the balance shaft which rides in the
engine block above the camshaft and is driven by the camshaft. All 3800 engines
are even-firing, the cylinders fire at equal 120 degree intervals of crankshaft
rotation. The location of the crankshaft journals has been offset by 30 degrees to
fire the cylinders at 120 degree intervals of crankshaft rotation. The camshaft lobes
and timing also reflect the 120 degree intervals. The even firing crankshaft provides
an equal interval of 120 degrees between ignition of each of the cylinders
throughout the firing order. The firing order is 1-6-5-4-3-2. The aluminum alloy
pistons have slipper skirts and are cam turned. Four drilled holes or casted slots in
the oil ring grooves permit drain back of the oil collected by the oil ring. The
camshaft is supported by four bearings in the engine block and is driven by the
crankshaft through sprockets and a timing chain. The cylinder heads are cast iron
and incorporate integral valve stem guides. Right and left cylinder heads are
identical and are interchangeable, but it is good practice to reinstall the cylinder
heads on the side from which they are removed. The intake manifold is bolted to the
inner faces of both cylinder heads so it connects with all inlet ports.

Each exhaust and intake valve has a valve spring to insure positive seating
throughout the operating speed range. The valve rocker arms for each bank of the
cylinders pivot on pedestals bolted to the cylinder head. Hydraulic roller valve lifters
and tubular push rods are used to operate overhead rocker arms and valves of
both banks of the cylinders from a single camshaft. This system requires no lash
adjustment at the time of assembly or service.






In addition to its normal function of a cam follower, each valve lifter also serves as
an automatic adjuster which maintains zero lash in the valve train under all
operating conditions. By eliminating all lash in the valve train and also providing a
cushion of oil to absorb operating shocks, the valve lifter promotes quiet valve
operation. It also eliminates the need for periodic valve adjustment to compensate
for wear of parts. Oil is supplied to the valve lifter through a hole in the side of the
valve lifter body which indexes with a groove and a hole in the valve lifter plunger.
Oil is then metered past the oil metering valve in the valve lifter, through the push
rods to the valve rocker arms. When the valve lifter begins to move up the camshaft
lobe, the check ball is held against its seat in the plunger by the check ball spring
which traps the oil in the base of the valve lifter body below the plunger.

The plunger and the valve lifter body then raise as a unit, pushing up the push rod
to open the valve. The force of the valve spring which is exerted on the plunger
through the valve rocker arm and push rod, causes a slight amount of leakage
between the plunger and the valve lifter body. This leakage allows a slow escape of
trapped oil in the base of the valve lifter body. As the valve lifter rolls down the other
side of the camshaft lobe and reaches the base circle or valve closed position, the
plunger spring quickly moves the plunger back (up) to its original position. This
movement causes the check ball to open against the ball spring, and any oil inside
the plunger is drawn into the base of the valve lifter. This restores the valve lifter to
the zero lash

The engine lubrication system is of the force-feed type. The oil is supplied under full
pressure to the crankshaft, connecting rods, valve lifters, camshaft, and rear
balance shaft bearing. A controlled volume of oil is supplied to the valve rocker
arms and push rods. All other moving parts are lubricated by gravity flow or splash.
The engine oil is stored in the lower crankcase (oil pan) which is filled through a
filler opening in the valve rocker arm cover. A removable oil level indicator, on the
left side of the engine block, is provided to check the oil level. The oil pump is
located in the engine front cover and is driven by the crankshaft. It is a gerotor-style
pump which is a combination of a gear and a rotor pump. It is connected by a
passage in the cylinder block to an oil screen and pipe assembly. The screen is
submerged in the oil supply and has ample volume for all operating conditions. If
the screen becomes clogged, oil may be drawn into the system through the oil
pressure relief valve in the oil filter adapter. Oil is drawn into the pump through the
screen and pipe assembly, and a passage in the crankcase, connecting to the
passages in the engine front cover. Oil is discharged from the oil pump to the oil
filter adapter. The oil filter adapter consists of an oil filter bypass valve and a nipple
for installation of an oil filter. The spring-loaded oil pressure relief valve, located in
the engine front cover, limits the oil pressure. The oil filter bypass valve opens when
the oil filter is restricted to approximately 68.95 kPa (10 psi) of pressure difference
between the oil filter inlet and discharge. The oil will then bypass the oil filter and
channel unfiltered oil directly to the main oil galleries of the engine. A full-flow oil
filter is externally mounted to the oil filter adapter on the lower right front side of the
engine. If the filter element becomes restricted, not allowing engine oil to pass
through, a spring-loaded bypass valve opens. The main oil galleries run the full
length of the engine block and cut into the valve lifter guide holes to supply oil at full
pressure to the valve lifters. Holes, drilled from the crankshaft bearings to the main
oil gallery, intersect the camshaft bearing bores to supply oil to the cam bearings.

Oil is transfered from the crankshaft bearings to the connecting rod bearings
through holes drilled in the crankshaft. Pistons, piston pins, and cylinder walls are
lubricated by oil splash from the crankshaft and connecting rods.

Each valve rocker arm and valve is supplied with oil through the tubular push rod.
The oil comes from the inside of the valve lifter passing around the metering valve
and through a hole in the push rod seat. Oil from the push rod passes through a
hole in the push rod seat, and emerges on top of the push rod seat boss

The electronic ignition (EI) system produces a high energy secondary spark. This spark is used to ignite
the compressed air/fuel mixture at precisely the correct time. This provides optimal performance, fuel
economy, and control of exhaust emissions. This ignition system uses one coil for each pair of cylinders.
Companion cylinders are a pair of cylinders that are at top dead center (TDC) at the same time. The
cylinder that is at TDC of the compression stroke is called the event cylinder. The cylinder that is at TDC
of the exhaust stroke is called the waste cylinder. When the coil is triggered both companion cylinder
spark plugs fire at the same time, completing a series circuit. Because the lower pressure inside the waste
cylinder offers very little resistance, the event cylinder uses most of the available voltage to produce a
very high energy spark. This is known as waste spark ignition. The EI system consists of the following
components:

Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensors
The crankshaft position (CKP) sensor has a 4-wire harness connector that plugs into the CKP sensor and
connects to the ignition control module (ICM). The CKP sensor contains 2 hall-effect switches in 1
housing, and shares a magnet between the switches. The magnet and each hall-effect switch are
separated by an air gap. A hall-effect switch is a solid state switching device that produces a digital
ON/OFF pulse when a rotating element passes the sensor pick-up and interrupts the magnetic field of the
sensor. The rotating element is called an interrupter ring or blade. There are two interrupter rings built
into the crankshaft balancer. The outer ring and the outer switch provide the ICM with 18X signals or 18
identical pulses per crankshaft revolution. The inner ring and the inner switch provide the ICM with 3
pulses per revolution, each 1 of different duration. This is called the sync pulse. Each sync pulse
represents a pair of companion cylinders. The ICM supplies a 12-volt and a low reference circuit to the
CKP sensor, which is also shared by the camshaft position (CMP) sensor. The 18X reference pulses are
passed from the CKP sensor to the ICM on the CKP sensor 1 signal circuit. The sync pulses are passed
from the CKP sensor to the ICM on the CKP sensor 2 signal circuit. The ICM uses the 18X and sync
pulses to determine the crankshaft position by counting how many ON-OFF 18X pulses occur during a
sync pulse. With this dual interrupter ring arrangement the ICM can identify the correct pair of cylinders to
fire within as little as 120 degrees of crankshaft rotation.

Crankshaft Balance Interrupter Ring
Each interrupter ring has blades and windows that either block the magnetic field or allow it to close one of
the hall-effect switches. The outer hall-effect switch sends a pulse called the 18X reference signal. The
outer interrupter ring has 18 evenly spaced blades and windows. The 18X reference signal produces 18
ON-OFF pulses per crankshaft revolution. The inner hall-effect switch sends a pulse called the sync
signal. The inner interrupter ring has 3 unevenly spaced blades and windows of different widths. The sync
signal produces 3 different length ON-OFF pulses per crankshaft revolution. When the sync interrupter
ring window is between the magnet and the inner switch, the magnetic field will cause the sync hall-effect
switch to ground the supplied voltage from the ICM. The 18X interrupter ring and the hall-effect switch
react similarly.

Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor
The camshaft position (CMP) sensor signal is a digital ON/OFF pulse, output once per revolution of the
camshaft. The CMP sensor does not directly affect the operation of the ignition system. The CMP sensor
information is used by the powertrain control module (PCM) to determine the position of the valve train
relative to the CKP. By monitoring the CMP and CKP signals the PCM can accurately time the operation of
the fuel injectors. The CMP sensor shares 12-volt and low reference circuits with the CKP sensor. The
CMP signal circuit is input to the ICM.

Ignition Control Module (ICM) and Ignition Coils
Three dual tower ignition coils are mounted to the ICM, and are serviced individually. The ICM performs
the following functions:

•  The ICM supplies a power and low reference circuit to the CMP and CKP sensors.

•  The ICM determines the correct direction of the crankshaft rotation, and cuts spark and fuel delivery to
prevent damage from backfiring if reverse rotation is detected.

•  The ICM determines the correct coil triggering sequence, based on how many 18 X ON-OFF pulses
occur during a sync pulse. This coil sequencing occurs at start-up, and is remembered by the ICM. After
the engine is running, the ICM will continue to trigger the coils without the CKP sync pulse.  

•  The ICM inputs 18 X and 3 X reference signals to the PCM.

•  The 3 X reference signal is also known as the low resolution engine speed signal. This signal is
generated by the ICM using an internal divide-by-six circuit. This circuit divides the 18 X signal pulses by
6. This divider circuit will not begin operation without a sync pulse present at start-up, and without 18 X
and 3 X reference signals no fuel injection will occur.  

Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
The PCM maintains proper spark and fuel injection timing for all driving conditions. Ignition control (IC)
spark timing is the method the PCM uses to control spark advance. To provide optimum driveability and
emissions, the PCM monitors input signals from the following components to calculate ignition spark timing:

•  The ignition control module (ICM)

•  The throttle position (TP) sensor

•  The engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor

•  The mass air flow (MAF) sensor

•  The intake air temperature (IAT) sensor

•  The vehicle speed sensor (VSS)

•  The transmission gear position or range information sensors

•  The engine knock sensors (KS)

The following describes the PCM to ICM circuits:

•  Low resolution engine speed signal--3 X reference--PCM input--from the ICM. The 3X reference signal is
produced by the ICM. The PCM uses this signal to calculate engine RPM and crankshaft position above
1,200 RPM. The PCM also uses the pulses on this circuit to initiate fuel injector operation. The PCM
compares the number of 3X pulses to the number of 18X and cam pulses. If the number of 3X pulses are
incorrect while the engine is cranking or running, the PCM will set a DTC. The engine will continue to start
and run normally using the 18X reference signal.

•  Medium resolution engine speed signal--18 X reference--PCM input--from the ICM. The 18 X reference
signal is used to accurately control spark timing at low RPM and allow ignition control (IC) operation during
cranking. The ICM calculates the 18X reference signal by filtering the CKP sensor 18X pulses when the
engine is running and the CKP sync pulses are being received. Below 1,200 RPM, the PCM is monitoring
the 18X reference signal and using the 18X signal as the reference for ignition timing advance. The PCM
compares the number of 18X pulses to the number of 3X and cam pulses. If the number of 18X pulses are
incorrect while the engine is cranking or running, the PCM will set a DTC. The engine will continue to start
and run normally using the 3X reference signal.

•  Camshaft position--PCM input--from the ICM. The PCM uses this signal to determine the position of the
cylinder #1 piston during the pistons power stroke. This signal is used by the PCM to calculate true
sequential fuel injection (SFI) mode of operation. The PCM compares the number of CAM pulses to the
number of 18 X and 3 X reference pulses. If the number of 18 X and 3 X reference pulses occurring
between CAM pulses is incorrect, or if no CAM pulses are received while the engine is running, the PCM
will set a DTC. If the CAM signal is lost while the engine is running the fuel injection system will shift to a
calculated sequential fuel injection mode based on the last CAM pulse, and the engine will continue to run.
The engine can be re-started and will run in the calculated sequential mode as long as the condition is
present with a 1 in 6 chance of being correct.

•  Low reference--PCM input--this is a ground circuit for the digital RPM counter inside the PCM, but the
wire is connected to engine ground only through the ICM. This circuit assures there is no ground drop
between the PCM and ICM.

•  IC timing signal--PCM output--to the ICM. The ICM controls spark timing while the engine is cranking,
this is called bypass mode. Once the PCM receives 3 X reference signals from the ICM, the PCM applies 5
volts to the IC timing signal circuit allowing the ICM to switch spark advance to PCM control.

•  IC timing control--PCM output--to the ICM. The IC output circuitry of the PCM sends out timing signals to
the ICM on this circuit. When in the Bypass Mode, the ICM grounds these signals. When in the IC Mode,
the signals are sent to the ICM to control spark timing.  

Modes of Operation
The PCM has 2 modes of operation. One is the Bypass mode during which the PCM does not apply 5
volts to the IC timing signal circuit, allowing the ICM to control the triggering of each coil for proper spark
timing. The Bypass mode is used during each of the following conditions:

•  Crank

•  Engine running below a desired RPM

•  Default mode due to a system failure

The other mode is the IC mode during which the PCM is receiving the 18X and the 3X reference pulses
from the CKP sensor and is supplying 5 volts to the IC timing signal circuit. This allow the PCM to
accurately control spark timing for all driving conditions.

Find this and more at greatautohlep.com

Accepted Answer

Hello jim

This does happen to the 5.4 but its not normal. The phasers need to be replaced and they know it. We do quite a few here and its the only way to stop the noise. Here is the tsb

This article supersedes TSB 06-4-7 to update the Service Procedure.

ISSUE: 

Some vehicles equipped with a 4.6L 3-valve or 5.4L 3-valve engine may exhibit a ticking and / or knocking noise after reaching normal operating temperature, or a rattle upon starting. The noise may be described as ticks, taps, knocks, or thumps. In some cases the noise may be a normal characteristic of these engines. In other cases the noise may require further investigation. Sorting out and defining the noise as reported by the customer is important to successfully diagnose and / or repair the condition.

ACTION: 

Before starting diagnosis, it is critical to determine the specific engine noise the customer is concerned with. The customer should be interviewed to get their detailed perception and description of the noise, and to determine if the noise occurs at idle or above idle speed, and if the engine is cold, hot, or both. Attempt to duplicate the noise, and determine the source of the symptom. Refer to the following Service Procedure to help determine the source of the noise and if a repair is needed.

SERVICE PROCEDURE 

PRE-CHECKS

1. Make sure you have a detailed description of the noise the customer is concerned with, including whether the noise is occurring at idle or above idle speed (does it disappear above 1200 RPM), and if the engine is cold, hot, or both when the noise is occurring. These engines generate a lot of "normal" noises, so it is critical to confirm the noise the customer is concerned with. Determine what environment the customer is in when the noise is most noticeable to them (inside passenger compartment, next to building with / without the driver and / or passenger window open, or beside the wheel well). Validate by using your own perception.
2. Compare the noise generated with a new vehicle, if available, with an ENGINE build date of 3/30/2005 or later on Mustang and 4/18/2005 or later on F-150 to F-350, Expedition and Navigator vehicles.
3. Diagnose noise when engine is at normal operating temperature (Oil at 160° F (71° C) or above). Verify oil temperature by using a diagnostic scan tool and monitoring the engine oil temperature (EOT) PID. Startup rattle may only occur with cold oil.
4. Check the type of oil filter installed on the vehicle. A dirty or clogged filter may cause a pressure drop. Look for aftermarket brands not recognized in the market or a production filter that has gone beyond the standard Ford recommended change interval.
5. Check for signs of oil brand used and viscosity (interview customer if needed). Motorcraft® SAE 5W-20 Premium Synthetic Blend Motor Oil or equivalent is recommended.

Once the above pre-checks are complete, check for sound level from the following components, in the order listed. Compare the sound from these components to the noise the customer is concerned with, to determine the source of the noise.

INJECTION / FUEL SYSTEM

Injector noise (ticking) is considered normal. Noise increases with RPM hot or cold and is recognized at the top of the engine.

VALVE TRAIN

Lash adjusters can make a ticking / tapping noise noticeable at any engine RPM / temperature and is audible through the wheel well or an open hood. However, with the hood down, lash adjuster noise can be heard as a light tapping noise through the wheel well and is considered normal.

Tracing this noise must be isolated to a cylinder bank. If one bank is louder than the other bank, focus the diagnostic to the loud bank. If both banks seem loud with the hood down, compare wheel well sound level to another comparable vehicle.

Use a stethoscope on the top of the cam cover bolt heads to confirm which bank is affected. Move the probe from front to rear if necessary.

If isolated, only replace the intake and exhaust lifters on the affected cylinder bank.

VARIABLE CAM TIMING

The 4.6L 3V and 5.4L 3V variable cam timing (VCT) feature may emit a light knock in normal operation and is audible only at idle speed, with a hot engine (gear selector in park / neutral). However, it may be masked by or mistaken for other noises generated from either injector firing or a malfunctioning valve train as described above. The noise does not affect performance or durability of the part.

VCT phasers may knock at hot idle. It may be heard inside the passenger compartment, or the wheel well area. Some light noise is normal. The engine may require a cold soak overnight for a full diagnosis to effectively be made at hot idle, particularly when a VCT phaser is suspected. The knock is not prevalent at cold temperature.

To test for VCT noise:

1. Place the transmission in park or neutral
2. Bring engine oil temperature to 160° F (71° C) or above as indicated by the scan tool "EOT" PID.
3. Allow engine to idle, and determine if noise is noticeable.
4. Set engine speed to over 1200 RPM (if noise is a VCT knock, the noise should disappear).
5. Return engine speed to idle (verify knock returns).

If the noise intensity is more than a lightly audible knock at hot idle under 1200 RPM at engine operating temperature, replace the cam phaser using the "In-Vehicle Repair" Camshaft Phaser and Sprocket procedure found in the Workshop Manual, Section 303-01

START UP RATTLE

Some 2004 F-150 and 2005 F-150, Expedition, Navigator, F-Super Duty, and Mustang vehicles may have a rattle on startup that lasts 1 to 3 seconds. If initial pre-checks have been completed and the noise sounds like it is coming from the front of the engine, replace the VCT Phaser Kit. If the engine continues to make the rattle noise after the initial startup do not exchange VCT.

WARRANTY STATUS:

Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage

DEALER CODING

NOTE: The information in Technical Service Bulletins is intended for use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge, tools, and equipment to do the job properly and safely. It informs these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or provides information that could assist in proper vehicle service. The procedures should not be performed by "do-it-yourselfers". Do not assume that a condition described affects your car or truck. Contact a Ford, Lincoln, or Mercury dealership to determine whether the Bulletin applies to your vehicle. Warranty Policy and Extended Service Plan documentation determine Warranty and/or Extended Service Plan coverage unless stated otherwise in the TSB article. The information in this Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) was current at the time of printing. Ford Motor Company reserves the right to supercede this information with updates. The most recent information is available through Ford Motor Company's on-line technical resources.

Copyright © 2006 Ford Motor Company

Written by Powerstroke. Find out more about the author

quoted text:

Heh... I see the above question a lot here, and I've heard a number of good responses:

• Use the header on your garage door and a chain hoist
• Rent an extra large engine hoist
• Use a nearby tree and a chain hoist
• Use a regular engine hoist if you've got a small boat
• Put a regular engine hoist inside a big boat and move the engine out of the way as much as possible
• Have a friend with a skid loader or backhoe come over and lift it out
• Have the local boat shop take it out of the boat and put it back in, while you do the rest of the work

All good ideas, but speaking as someone who's pulled v8 engines out of two boats, they're all too much trouble to do on a regular basis. If I need to get to the underside of the engines or service the transom kit (like replacing the trim hoses) then it's a major problem to arrange to get the engine out, and an expense I don't need.

Plus I have need to lift things other than engines, like the windshield assembly on my 21 footer, the sterndrive, or even lift the whole boat off the trailer to fix the support structure (adjust tongue weight or whatever).

So, here's my own solution to the problem.

I have a TIG welder which I'm getting practice with and getting decent at welding steel (still working on aluminum). So I decided to make a hoist. I went to discount steel and aluminum here in downtown minneapolis and bought some tubing. I wanted a super heavy duty hoist, plus I was going to make it tall, so I wanted at least 4x3 rectangular tubing with a 1/4 inch wall.. basically heavy duty trailer tubing.

I got 5x3 5/16 tubing since that was what they had in stock. I bought enough to make the vertical post, the horizontal base, and I also got some 3x2 tubing for a "foot" on one side. I picked up some 5/8 plate for making hydraulic mounting points.

The hydraulic ram I got from harbor freight... it's a standard generic model they and Northern Tool both sell, 8 ton long ram air/hydraulic cylinder with mounting loops:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94562

I also used a pile of scrap metal I had from various things... my neighbor's garage clean-out, a boat trailer I scrapped, etc.

The fasteners used are farm type pins.. the main pivot is a 1 inch forged hitch pin, the bolts on the vertical are 3/4" grade 8, U bolts on the hook are trailer axle attachments. The hydraulic pins are 5/8" forged trailer pins. The hook is a cast steel towing hook from a truck bumper.

I sat down to several nights with the welder. I didn't take pics of the assembly for various reasons, mostly because I didn't want to take the time, and frankly seeing how it went together is boring in this case.




(apologies for the blurriness) That's my 21 footer on the left.

The hard parts were figuring out a design to hold the weight I wanted, designing it so I could insert an extension section to make it taller as needed, and finding casters that would work for it. The frame itself can hold up to 8-10 tons easily, but the casters are too small for that. The ones on there can maybe handle 1 ton total max, they're a temporary solution. This thing isn't too useful if I can't move it around.

I did buy some heavy duty casters from a surplus place, but didn't think through the size... they're about a foot tall, which would make this thing even more unwieldy. I'm going to make some roller type casters out of aluminum or nylon that can take the weight. I also have planned from the start to weld a spare axle I have onto the rear of the hoist so I can use the tires to help move it, and I'll also weld a hitch onto the rear of the horizontal beam so I can tow the thing anywhere I need. I'm not sure if I have to license it as a trailer, though I suppose I'll find out.

Here's a pic of my first test:



The "air" part of the hydraulics is nice. I can use a 5 gallon tank of 120PSI air for one lift, saves some arm movement. It works better attached to a compressor.

At some point I may replace the ram with a 24" hydraulic cylinder, and a 12 volt power unit and battery. That would extend the range of lift and also add some power.

Right now it can lift either of my friends' RIB boats off their trailers completely (20 footer and a 17) but needs some extra fold-out legs to be completely stable (gonna add those too).

As you can see it picked up my truck front end ok, and I did some nasty things to test the stability, like pushing the whole truck sideways with my foot in the air. The hoist flexed a little but didn't creak or bend.

It can lift loads from 9 1/2 feet in the air and put them down to 5 feet, which is perfect for removing my engines. The 4 foot extension should let it pick up engines out of the 30 footer a friend of mine owns while it's on the trailer, once I get those support legs installed.

Total cost in metal: About $250
Total time to build: 8 hours
Hydraulics cost: $90+ tax
Total weight of the unit: about 400 lbs
height: 7' 6"
lift capacity: 2 tons at end of arm, 8 near the ram
lowest lift: 5 feet
highest lift: 9' 6"
welder: TIG, DC, 15 cfm 100% argon, 3/32 and 1/8" thoriated tungsten, 3/32 and 1/8" filler rod, 200 amp setting

I went through 3 80 cf argon tanks while doing this because my welder has a leak and I forgot to turn off the gas twice, which sucked. $45 a tank fill cost later I'm remembering to turn off the tank valve and learning to conserve gas while welding.

Rental of the big engine hoist I was using was costing me about $75 a day, so it'll pay for itself in about one year, plus I can pull fenceposts up, fix trailers more easily, and more safely work on large objects around my house (no more dislocated bones while working on trailers).

Erik

When boating season ends, some people park the boat in the storage yard or driveway without a thought for starting the engine the next season. In so doing, they insure that the first start up of the next season will be troublesome or expensive or both. Many of the problems associated with that first trip to the water can be avoided by taking the time to winterize the motor before laying the boat up for the winter.

Instructions

1. • 1

     Change the engine coolant and thoroughly rinse the cooling system, including the engine block, heat exchangers, water heater and the overflow bottle. Refill the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of fresh anti-freeze and water by filling the heater hose with a small hand pump and filling the engine when the mixture returns from the water heater to the engine. When the coolant fills the "fill tank," reconnect the heater hose to the engine. This will eliminate almost all of the air from the cooling system.

   • 2

     Change the engine and transmission oil, draining the engine oil from the oil pan sump and the transmission oil from the gear box sump through the oil drain plugs on each. Replace the old oil with the new oil of the proper grade, through the oil filler cap. Change the in-line oil filters and, if so equipped, the Racor cartridges.

   • 3

     Remove the flame arrestor from the engine air intake. Spray fogging oil into the carburetor while the engine is running to prevent corrosion in the carburetor and jets.

   • 4

     Shut off the fuel supply valve or disconnect the fuel line from the motor and let the motor run until it runs out of fuel. When the motor begins to die, put one more heavy spray of fogging oil into the air intake, through the flame arrestor.

   • 5

     Drain all water from the muffler canister.

   • 6

     Seal all air inlets, crankcase and transmission vents, exhaust outlets and tank vents with plastic wrap and duct tape.

Simple test; does your PCM have 4 plugs or 3 plugs on it?

4 plugs – NGC, 32T tone wheel

3 plugs – JTEC, 16T tone wheel

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quoted from wikibooks:

Mistake on the engine code M, this M code comes out on the 1995 - 1999 Chevrolet Monte Carlo and the engine is an RPO L82 3.1 SFI engine.

VIN code T also designates a 3.1 V6, the base engine in the 1990-92 Camaro/Firebird platform, and VIN code 8 is much better known as the L98 5.7 V8 TPI, standard in the 1985-91 Corvette and optional in the 1987-92 Camaro/Firebird platform .

Missing Entry: 1985-1988 Pontiac Fieros have a 9 engine code for the 2.8L L44 V6.

Missing Entry: The 2009 Corvette uses a W engine code for the 6.2L LS3 V8.

Warning: Issues with the decoding are related to year/model combinations. Such as the 4.1 V6 is not included in the list, however it was used on El Dorada and some Cadillac models. Each Year has different break down for each code, a complete list would be a subject of its own. Along with Plants and some model break downs over years.

Missing Entry: 1991 Limo with engine code 7, is not listed. According to one source the limo engine is a 5.7L.

Engine codes for light trucks

There is a mistake for 2012. The engine code for 4.8 L Flexfuel engine is an A and is not listed.

VIN Size Type Fuel
1 6.6 L V8 Diesel
2 6.6 L V8 Diesel
B 5.3 L V8 RPO-L33 Vortec 5.3L 310 Alum Blk HO
D 6.6L V8 Diesel
G 8.1L V8 (Vortec 8100)
J 6.2 L V8 Diesel, Non-Turbo
L 2.5 L L4
M 5.0 L V8
N 6.0 L V8 (GENIII LQ9)
P 5.3 L V8
K 5.7 L V8 TBI
R 5.7 L V8 Vortec
S 4.2 L L6
T 5.3 L V8 (GENIII LM7)
U 6.0 L V8 (GENIII LQ4)
V 4.8 L V8
W 4.3 L V6 CPI
X 4.3 L V6
Z 4.3 L V6 TFI

Source: Wikibooks

When a single fleet vehicle goes down with engine problems, the repercussions of the damaged truck or car are felt within the entire fleet department. Not only is the vehicle unable to do its assigned task, but also it begins to lose money for the fleet department everyday it is not in use. When dealing with engines, fleet managers must scramble to replace a large piece of equipment in a short amount of time. Remanufactured engines allow fleet managers to replace a faulty engine quickly with a product that has been built up to or above the specifications and can be installed immediately. Remanufactured engines also help the environment by recycling faulty engines, refurbishing them to specifications for re-use in other vehicles. These engines can be an easy, cost-effective alternative for fleet managers who need to get non-operating vehicles working again and back into their fleets. Remanufactured and Rebuilt Engines Differ
In the world of replacement engines, remanufactured engines arenÕt the only choice. Used and rebuilt engines are also options. Remanufactured engines and rebuilt engines may seem the same, but they are very different products. A rebuilt product is completely overhauled, but not upgraded with new technology. A remanufactured product is completely overhauled, but carries an updated design and components that address the original product's flaws and failures. “If you go for remanufactured products, you get the latest and greatest product updates,” says Brian Hoglund, director of the Powertrain Business Line Team for General Motors. “We manufacture thousands of transmissions and many, many engines as well. As we do that, we see common failure rates from older vehicles, and we’ll make product improvements over time.” Hoglund adds, “That’s the luxury of seeing so many failed pieces coming back that you then recycle. You can make updates. And a local rebuilder may not be able to do that because he doesn’t see the same kinds of volumes.” Overhauled and rebuilt engines and transmissions do not run as well as remanufactured engines because the customer is still purchasing old technology, says Bob Boeglin, national sales manager for Jasper Engines and Transmissions. With remanufactured units, all parts are brand-new, including valves and springs; whereas with overhauled or rebuilt, the problem is fixed by tweaking or re-using parts that may or may not fit OEM specs. Technician experience can be an issue with rebuilt engines, according to Mark Whitthar, powertrain marketing manager for Ford Motor Co. “You don’t know the training level of the technician involved.” Whitthar says that rebuilding an engine can be done very well, and is done throughout shops in the U.S., but the mechanic in the shop could have two weeks’ experience on the job or 20 years. He adds, “When you rebuild something in a shop environment, there are certain things you can’t control, like dust and dirt. In the case of remanufactured engines, we have our engineers work directly with our suppliers. We have complete specifications and a very high degree of control over the remanufacture process.” Zach Bawel, vice president of sales for Jasper Engines sees the remanufacturing process as a way to make the engines better than before. “With remanufactured products, we see the things that caused the original engine to fail. We work with our parts supplier to produce parts and things that can actually make that product better once it’s remanufactured.” Mark Spaulding, vice president of operations for AER Manufacturing, adds, “A remanufactured engine is going to have a much higher content of new parts put back in it.” Spaulding notes that rather than fixing and reusing an engine part, a remanufacturer will scrap the broken piece and replace it with a new one. Avoiding Downtime with a Remanufactured Engine
Remanufactured engines allow quick delivery and installation, with little or no downtime. “I have finished goods sitting in 46 buildings around the United States, so I can provide fleet customers with same- or next-day service virtually anywhere in the U.S.,” says Whitthar. “I have finished goods ready to ship and to be installed into vehicles immediately. Mine are built exact fit for Ford applications.” Hoglund adds, “Remanufacturing means faster vehicle turnaround. If uptime is important and the vehicle is a revenue-producing unit, you want to get it on the road as fast as possible.” Many remanufacturers have made their products available to fleet managers who find themselves in a jam when needing a high-quality replacement engine. “We’ve got about 18,000 units in inventory,” says Bawel. “So, if a fleet needs a Powerstroke diesel, we sell them one that’s in our inventory in one of 35 branches across the country. Then, once they pull out the old one, we get that back as a core, remanufacture it, put it back into inventory, and sell it to someone else.” A Cost-Effective Alternative for Fleets
Remanufactured engines can also save money for fleet departments, eliminating the need to buy a new vehicle. Bawel says that remanufactured engines are cost-effective if people are at the point of replacing parts. “I think several years ago, pre-September 11 when businesses were doing very well, there seemed to be a lot of people replacing their vehicles every three or four years.” He now sees fleet managers extending vehicle lifecycles in an effort to reduce cost and expenses. “Remanufactured engines are a cost-effective way of continuing the life of the vehicle without the high cost of buying new.” Spaulding agrees. “Fleet managers can extend the life of their vehicles and keep overall costs down instead of replacing cars every two years,” he explains. “A new transmission or engine can double the life of a vehicle.” Hoglund knows fleet customers who have gone through two, three, and even four powertrains, but keep the vehicle because the service body is still intact. In some fleets, there are 15- to 20-year- old chassis, but the only thing needed is a new engine. “Its better for the environment to recycle them and it should be a better economical decision, too,” he adds. Though the industry trend for both remanufactured and rebuilt engines seems to be trending downward, Hoglund sees a strong market in light- and medium-duty trucks. “We continue to see that market remaining very strong for new and remanufactured replacements.”

If you suspect that your 3.8L GM vehicle (whether it’s a Buick, a Chevy, a Pontiac, or an Olds) has a Blown Head Gasket and don’t know how to test this... well, you’ve found the right article. I’m gonna’ show you how to do three of the most common tests to verify a Blown Head Gasket.

All three tests are explained in a step-by-step fashion and more importantly... I’ll explain the test results that you’ll obtain from the tests.

To make it easier to navigate this article, here are its contents at a quick glance:

• HEAD GASKET TEST 1.
• HEAD GASKET TEST 2.
• HEAD GASKET TEST 3.
• Symptoms of a Blown Head Gasket.
• Related Test Articles.

HEAD GASKET TEST 1:

The first two tests are the fastest and the easiest to do and they are very accurate too. The first test or the second may be enough to verify that the Head Gasket is Blown on your GM 3.8L equipped car or mini-van, so there’s a good possibility that you may not have to do all three. So, before you start on this first test... take a look at the whole article.

Alright, this test should take you less than 2 minutes to do:

1. 1

   Pop the hood on your 3.8L GM car or mini-van and once open, check the Engine Oil by pulling out the Engine’s Oil Dipstick.

2. 2

   The idea behind this test is to see if Coolant is mixing with the Engine Oil and so you’ll notice one of two things:
   
   1.) Either the color of the Engine Oil will be an off-white/tan color or...
   
   2.) The oil is its normal color and viscosity.

Now, let’s find out what each of the two results mean:

CASE 1   The Engine Oil is an off-white/tan color, and your car or mini-van overheats and/or doesn’t start... this confirms that your vehicle has a Blown Head Gasket.

Why does the oil look like this? Mainly because your 3.8L GM car or mini-van over-heated and :

1.) The Cylinder Head (or Heads) warped and one of the two Head Gaskets on your 3.8L engine burned.

2.) Once one of the two Head Gaskets on your engine burns, it won’t be able to keep the Engine Oil or Coolant separated...

3.) ...this will lead to the Coolant entering the Engine Oil Pan.. As both Oil and Coolant mix... the resulting combination gets thick and becomes an off-white color.

CASE 2   The color of the Engine Oil is normal, so far so good, but if your vehicle is still overheating (and you’ve verified that the Thermostat and Cooling Fans are OK)... you’ll need to do two more tests. Go to HEAD GASKET TEST 2.

Here’s why: In most cases, when one of the Head Gaskets burns on a 3.8L GM car or mini-van, the Coolant does mix with the Engine Oil. But not always, and so then, there’s the need to do some more tests. The next test is to see if the Engine Compression and Exhaust Gases are escaping thru’ the Cooling System (specifically the Radiator).

HEAD GASKET TEST 2

The second most common test, to see if the Head Gasket on your 3.8L GM car or mini-van is blown or not, is to check if Engine Compression and/or Combustion Gases are escaping thru’ the Cooling System. This is another very easy test and does not require any tools whatsoever to do.

Now, before you start... if the engine has been running for an extended amount of time and it’s hot, let the engine cool down for at least 1 hour. This is important, or you run the risk of getting scalded with hot Coolant.

If your 3.8L GM car or mini-van doesn’t Start, well this is not an issue. OK, here are the test steps:

1. 1

   Remove your pick up or car’s Radiator’s Cap. Check the Coolant level, since the Radiator has to be full of Coolant for this test to work. If empty... add some water or Coolant to bring the Coolant level to full.

2. 2

   Now, get your helper to crank the engine, while you stand at a safe distance from the open Radiator.

3. 3

   You’ll see one of two results:
   
   1.) The water or Coolant inside the Radiator will shoot up and out of the now open Radiator.
   
   2.) The Coolant will not be disturbed. In other words, cranking the engine will have no effect on the level of the Water or Coolant in the Radiator.

OK, now that the testing part is done... let’s take a look at what your results mean:

CASE 1  The Coolant bubbled out or shot out from the Radiator: This is bad news and this let’s you know beyond a shadow of a doubt that the Head Gasket on your 3.8L GM car or mini-van is blown. No further testing is required.

CASE 2  The Coolant DID NOT bubble out NOR shoot out from the Radiator: So far so good, but one more test is needed to make absolutely sure the Head Gasket is OK, go to HEAD GASKET TEST 3

Now, common sense tells you that if a Head Gasket is Blown... you ARE gonna’ have Oil mixed with Coolant, and Engine Compression and/or Combustion Gases are going to be shooting out of the Radiator... but sometimes this just doesn’t happen. So, the next test will further confirm or exonerate the Head Gasket.

HEAD GASKET TEST 3

One of the most overlooked tests, to see if the Head Gasket is BAD or not, is an Engine Compression Test. Why? Well because most folks will do the two previous tests (HEAD GASKET TEST 1 and HEAD GASKET TEST 2) and they will not see the Engine Oil mixing with the Coolant nor see the Combustion Gases jumping out of the open Radiator and conclude everything is OK. And whatever information they have available never mentions testing the Engine Compression.

Well, now you know that it is possible for the Head Gasket to burn and not cause the Oil to mix with Coolant nor cause the Exhaust Gases to escape thru’ the Cooling System. In this test step, you’ll be doing a Compression Test and more importantly... you’ll be able to easily interpret those results (with my help) to further confirm or exonerate a Blown Head Gasket.

This test will see if the Head Gasket on your 3.8L GM car or mini-van has burned at a point between cylinders.

If this does happen, the Compression/ Combustion of one cylinder to leak into the other and vice-versa and the Compression readings will easily let us know this has happened.

OK, here’s what you need to do:

1. 1

   Disable the Fuel System and the Ignition System. It’s important that Fuel not be injected into the engine and Spark not be delivered to the Spark Plug Wires.
   
   You can do this by disconnecting Ignition Control Module’s electrical connector (this will disable both Systems).

2. 2

   Disconnect all Spark Plug Wires (from their Spark Plugs) and then take out all of the Spark Plugs. I suggest you label all of the Spark Plug Wires before you unplug them from the Spark Plugs, that way you’ll know where they go when you’re done.

3. 3

   Thread in the Compression Tester by hand, on the first Spark Plug hole you’re gonna’s start with.
   
   Do not use any tools to tighten the Compression Tester. Hand tightening the Compression Tester is more than enough to get the proper results.

4. 4

   Have a helper crank the engine. Your job is to observe the Compression Tester.
   
   This is what is gonna’ happen: The Compression Tester’s needle will climb, as the engine cranks, till it reaches the maximum Cylinder Compression. At the point it stops climbing, have your assistant stop cranking the engine.
   
   Now, write down the reading and what cylinder it belongs to (you can use the image in the image viewer to help you identify the cylinder) on a piece of paper. Remove the Compression Tester and repeat the above steps in the remaining cylinders.

OK, before I jump into the above Compression Test result interpretations, let me give you some more detailed information as to what you’re trying to accomplish with this test... If the Head Gasket is burned at a location between 2 Cylinders... your Compression Test readings will give you 2 good compression readings and 2 Compression readings that will be 0 PSI. Let me give you a more specific example:

Let’s say that I tested my 3.8L GM car or mini-van and I got the following Compression Tester readings:

• Cylinder #1 = 165 PSI
• Cylinder #2 = 180 PSI
• Cylinder #3 = 0 PSI
• Cylinder #4 = 170 PSI
• Cylinder #5 = 0 PSI
• Cylinder #6 = 170 PSI

The Compression readings for Cylinders #3 and #5 would be a dead giveaway that the Head Gasket got fried between those two cylinders. Now, in your 3.8L GM car or mini-van... you may not see those exact same Cylinders with 0 PSI readings. It may be #1 and #3 or it may be #4 and #6... the key here, is that whatever Cylinders are affected, two of them will have 0 PSI compression and they will be both be side by side.

CASE 1   All Cylinder Compression readings where normal: These Compression Gauge readings confirm that the Head Gasket is OK and not burned at a point between two cylinders.

OK, 3 out of 3 tests have confirmed that the Head Gasket on your 3.8L GM car or mini-van is not blown.

CASE 2   Two side by side Cylinders had 0 PSI Compression: This Engine Compression reading confirms that the Head Gasket is burned thru’ at the point between those two Cylinders. You will need to replace the Head Gasket.

Symptoms of a Blown Head Gasket

The most common cause of a Blown Head Gasket is that the engine overheated because: 1) Fan Clutch is not working, 2) All of the Coolant leaked out of the Engine and you kept driving it this way. 3) Thermostat went BAD and is stuck closed and the Coolant could not circulate. The most common symptoms a Blown Head Gasket are:

1. 1

   Your 3.8L GM car or mini-van is overheating. You know it’s not the Fan (or Fan Clutch) or Thermostat.

2. 2

   White Smoke is coming out of the tail-pipe and it smells like Anti-Freeze being cooked.

3. 3

   Your 3.8L GM car or mini-van won’t start.
   
   1.) You have already verified it’s not an Ignition System problem because you have Spark coming out at all of the Spark Plug Wires.
   
   2.) You know it’s not a Lack of Fuel, because you have verified that the Fuel Pump is delivering Fuel to the Fuel Injectors.

4. 4

   The Engine Oil is thick and tan to off-white color (mixed with Coolant).
   
   

Related Test Articles

There are several more 3.8L GM car or mini-van specific ‘How to Test’ articles that I’ve written for your troubleshooting and diagnostic benefit. The articles that are here in this Web Site... you can find them here: GM 3.8L Index of Articles.

At easyautodiagnostics.com, you’ll find the following articles:

• How to Test the GM 3.8L V6 Ignition Coil Packs Buick, Chevy, Oldsmobile, Pontiac.
  • This article presents very simple and effective ON CAR tests of the Ignition Coil Packs on the GM 3.8L V6 equipped engines (Buick, Chevy, Oldsmobile, Pontiac).
• Testing the Ignition Control Module (ICM) Buick, Chevy, Pontiac, Oldsmobile 3.8L V6 Engines.
  • This Test will help you to pinpoint the problem to the Ignition Control Module (ICM) or the Crankshaft Position Sensor as the source of your car’s NO START Condition.
• How to Test the MAF Sensor on 3.1L, 3.3L, and 3.8L Buick, Oldsmobile, Pontiac.
  • This article will show you how to test and diagnose a BAD GM Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor on all of the early 90 thru’ mid 90’s Buick, Olds, Pontiac 3.1L, 3.3L and 3.8L V6 equipped cars (to be more specific: 89-96)

Reader's Real Life Case Studies and Solutions

In this section is input and feedback from all of the folks who have had a similar issue with their vehicle and found a solution. If you're one of them, I want to thank you for sharing your experience with all of us!

If you want to share your repair and/or diagnostic experience, you can use the contact form below.

Real Life Case Study 1

Vehicle: 2000 Buick Park Ave. (Base) 3.8L V-6, 172,000 miles

Trouble Codes: P0303 and P0304

Complaint: LOW COMPRESSION ON #3 AND #4 “...I lost a water pump going up a 6% grade incline at high speed and wasn't watching the temp. gauge. I used some Duraseal to overcome some coolant leak problems, but still had a 70 lb. compression reading on #3 and #4 and was throwing P0303 and P0304 codes...”

“...Another compression test gave the same results, and when we added a spoonful of oil (for a wet compression test) it only came up ten pounds, to about 80 psi. At that point, I figure that it may be a valve problem, a burnt seat or a bent valve, etc...”

Test Notes: “..The initial compression test indicated a problem and I wanted to believe a head gasket problem was the source of that loss of compression. But even after doing the chemical fix – which worked – I still had loss of compression. With the wet test showing little improvement, the inescapable conclusion was that the valves were compromised...”

“...At that point I looked at the cost of paying someone to tear it all down, then magnaflux the heads and fix the bad valves and put it all back together: not a small amount. The problem is that even once you do that, if you do that, you then have a strong upper engine working on a 170,000 lower engine. The prospect is that then – as many times it has been seen – that later the lower end is blown out and you have to start all over again to do a ring job. Tilt!...”

Repair: REPLACED ENGINE “..I called the S** V***** area salvage yards to find a low mileage used engine in the L*** area. The salvage yard gave me a price of $1,500 to buy the engine AND install it. He used my existing plastic Intake Manifold, not the metal one on the ‘new’ engine, and got it to work...”

Advice: “...That is the key thing I learned. IF YOU ARE LOSING COOLANT OVER TIME, CHECK THE WEEP HOLE ON YOUR WATER PUMP FIRST. That is the first place to look. If I had done that and replaced the water pump when it was telling me it was about to go, I would have avoided all the time and cost of the repairs I incurred. But now I am even better off, in a way, with a low mileage engine to go with my already rebuilt tranny... ”

Courtesy of: Dave Cramer

Notes: You can read Dave's entire post here: Dave's Post.

Oldsmobile Vehicles:

    Cutlass Ciera (& Cruiser) 3.8L
        1993
    Intrigue 3.8L
        1998, 1999
    LSS 3.8L
        1996, 1997, 1998, 1999
    Regency 3.8L
        1997, 1998
    Silhouette 3.8L
        1993, 1994, 1995

Oldsmobile Vehicles:

    88 (& 88 Royale) 3.8L
        1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998
    98 Regency 3.8L
        1993, 1994, 1995, 1996
    Achieva 3.8L
        1993

Chevrolet Vehicles:

    Camaro 3.8L
        1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002
    Impala 3.8L
        2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005
    Lumina (& MPV)
        1993, 1994, 1995, 1998, 1999
    Monte Carlo 3.8L
        1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005

Buick Vehicles:

    Regal 3.8L
        1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004
    Riviera 3.8L
        1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999
    Skylark 3.8L
        1993

Buick Vehicles:

    Century 3.8L
        1993
    LeSabre 3.8L
        1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005
    Park Avenue (& Ultra) 3.8L
        1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005

Pontiac Vehicles:

    Grand Prix 3.8L
        1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008
    Trans Sport 3.8L
        1993, 1994, 1995

Pontiac Vehicles:

    Bonneville 3.8L
        1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005
    Firebird 3.8L
        1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002
    Grand Am 3.8L
        1993

1. Sign up

   To get started, sign up for Google+ at plus.google.com -- it's free and anyone can join. Then go to Google+ VetConnect and sign in with your Google+ account.

2. Create a profile

   Fill in all of the entry fields to complete your profile. These include:

   • Military Branch
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   If you'd like to find the public profiles of other veterans and allow them to find you, make sure you check the box.

   Then click Save and search.

   After clicking Save and search you will be shown veterans who share similar service experiences or live nearby. To connect with them, just create circles and add veterans to them.

3. Create circles

   Here's how to create circles:

   1. Visit plus.google.com/circles.

   2. Select the people you want to include in your circle. You can select more than one person at a time by either clicking on more than one name tile or dragging your mouse over multiple tiles.

      

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1. Add your .mil email address to your Google Account

   In order to be eligible for free calling in Gmail, you'll need to add your .mil email address to your Google Account. Follow these steps:

   1. Sign in on the Google Accounts homepage.
   2. Click Edit next to 'Email addresses.'
   3. Add your .mil email in the 'Add an additional email address' field.
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2. Make and receive calls for free

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   3. Click the Call Phone link at the top of your contacts list.

   4. Dial the phone number and click Call.

      

   And don't forget that for your friends and family at home in the U.S., calling you abroad is as little as $.02/minute.

quoted from googleforveterans.com

I tried searching and didn't find much on blown head gaskets so I figured I'd start a thread in case others had this issue in the future. Car:

Car:

2006 Charger R/T

Story:

I drove to get a burger (which was delicious buffalo ) and noticed while parked it seems that a funny noise was coming from under the hood. It sounded as if the engine fan was working harder than normal... kinda louder and buzzing.

I didn't think much of it but probably should have. After driving down the road some, I noticed my engine temp gauge was about half a millimeter higher than usual. It always stayed at the same just under halfway temp since I got the car brand new so it was something small but noticeable. Then after about a mile the temp went up very fast.

I knew something was wrong so I pulled over and let it cool. Well I started the car back up to try and get it to the dealership and it cooled off real quick then started heating up quick again. I did the stop/cool/start a couple more times. After the 2nd time, the car would not start at all. It's like it was trying to start but just wouldn't go.

I had it towed to the dealership and they started talking about taking the engine apart, replacing it with a whole new engine, etc. I said eff that. So I had it towed to a good shop that a friend of my gf managed. They took a look at it and said I blew my head gaskets... and I guess that's the diagnosis. I'll get the costs to repair tomorrow, but I'm just glad I didn't need a new engine. That would make no sense considering there's only about 75K on it with regular maintenance.

Well there's my story... anyone else go through something similar before? And how did I go about blowing my gaskets?

The replies:

un4givun2 Senior Member

Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 1,213

Kansas City_Charger Senior Member

Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Kansas City, MO Posts: 3,032

Blown head gasket, wouldn't there be huge clouds of white/blueish smoke coming out of the exhaust pipes and wouldn't there be coolant mixed in the oil pan, milky looking color on the dipstick? I agree with Un4givun, I would have that double checked to make sure before you have somebody tearing your heads down for a problem mistakenly diagnosed. Just cause he manages a very popular shop does not mean he/they are right 100%.

SVRSRTCDN Senior Member

Join Date: Feb 2007 Posts: 706

I can see where this is going.

#1, needed new engine.
#2. did not like that so went elsewhere and it "ONLY" needs head gaskets.
#3, now it needs "Head Gaskets and a new RAD"

Future:

#4, Engine sounds like crap with new gaskets and rad.
#5, Bent rod from coolant in cylinders and bearings ruined from coolant in oil.
#6, needs new engine (See step 1)


I sure hope I'm wrong, really I do!

Here's another solid reply:

Dookie Senior Member

Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Baton Rouge, La. GEAUX TIGERS! Posts: 2,724

BucEmDowN Senior Member

Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Tampa, FL Posts: 111

UPDATE:

Things are worse than originally thought.

I do need a new radiator. That was the cause of the problem. Apparently the engine overheated so much that not only were the head gaskets ruined, but the valve seats also fell into the engine, causing extensive damage.

The diagnosis is a new engine is needed. I'm getting one that has 50K miles on it and a new radiator... total with labor: $4100.

Aked by RUI04 Mar 13, 2012 at 07:00 PM about the 2006 Dodge Charger RT on cargurus(link)

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

My charger over heated over the weekend and caused my car to stop working I had it towed to tires plus and they said it was going to cost me around 6,500 to get fixed with labor. At first they said it was the head gaskets and when they called me back after I gave them the ok to take apart my engine to see if the head gaskets we cracked they called back and said that it did enough damage to need a new engine. I still owe money one the car. There is 2 years left of my loan and I am really not loaded with money. Is there any other suggestions. Alot of people told me tires plus would try and give me the worst advice to give them more money. I am a female and dont know much about cars just going off of what everyone else is telling me. If i can get if fixed for a lower amount I would like to trade. Other then this major problem my car is in good condition fully loaded but I'm pretty sure a dealer will not let me trade in a car thats not working regardless of how the body looks. Any suggestions?

Here are the answers posted:

Jason answered 2 months ago

I doubt you need a new engine unless you drove for a long time with it over heating, at most it might have warped a cylinder head which would require it to be milled it should not cost that much I am sure. I just looked at ebay and found 3 motors that fit your car for less that 3000. I would get a second opinion from a good reputiable shop around you

RUI04 answered 2 months ago

I only drove it for one day after I found out it needed a new radiator for about 10 miles. It had never over heated After I turned the car off it was smoking from the hood and when I let it cool down it wouldnt start. There is white smoke coming for the tail pipes and it was making a lot of noise. The man at tires plus did say I damaged a cylinder head, but said that its damaged to the point of needing a new engine. I dont understand why they would tell me it was the head gaskets with out looking at everything first. They said engine will cost 4,500 and labor will cost 1,900 that is too much money to put in this car. When I have about that left to pay off. I really hope it is something smaller then what they are saying.

William answered 2 months ago

way tooooooo much..... a good eng. should be about 1,800 to 2,500. labor about 1,100.... now the first prob. was taking it to a tire place.. all those places say and up sales the more money they sell taking you and other people to the cleaners....take it to a repair shop reputable.sorry for your loss......

Phil answered 2 months ago

I agree with the other two guys. i don't even get tires from a place like that, they just don't have enough knowledge about hi pro vehicles. I would take your hemi to a reputable engine rebuilder around your town. As the hemi is a hi pro engine you might want to check a good speed shop. It does sound like a blown head gasket but I doubt that you need an entire engine rebuild, at the very most it sounds like a top end rebuild...no where near the cost they are quoting you. It really sucks when some companies try to rip off some one they think wouldn't know any better. Not necessarily a woman, it could be a guy also. Good luck.

Jason answered 2 months ago

yes white smoke from tail pipe is a pure sign of a blown head gasket happened to my mustang once but a damaged head gasket means exactly what phil said just a top rebuild which is replace gasket and check head straightness and then put it back together you should really tell them to screw off and your taking your car somewhere else

RUI04 answered 2 months ago

I am going to get my car towed to a high performance mechanic that my uncle has been getting his cars worked on for years and see what he says. He rebuilds and builds engines and race cars so I hope I will get the response as what all of you are saying after he takes a look at it, it would be such a big relief. Tires Plus is probably the worst shop for this and they are doing the easy way out instead of inspecting all other options. Thank you all for you help I am really glad I came to this site it has taken away some of my high anxiety. I will let you know what the real mechanic has to say as soon as I find out,

Buyer's Guide - Transfer Cases And Shift Motors

Part No.

Year

Make

Model

UMT501-1

1979-73

CHEVROLET

K10 PICKUP, K20 PICKUP, K30 PICKUP

1979-73

GMC

K15/K1500 PICKUP, K25/K2500 PICKUP, K35/K3500 PICKUP

UMT501-2

1979-73

CHEVROLET

K10 PICKUP, K20 PICKUP, K30 PICKUP

1979-73

GMC

K15/K1500 PICKUP, K25/K2500 PICKUP, K35/K3500 PICKUP

UMT502-1

1986-69

CHEVROLET

K10 PICKUP, K20 PICKUP

1986-69

GMC

K15/K1500 PICKUP, K25/K2500 PICKUP

UMT502-2

1986-69

CHEVROLET

BLAZER (Full Size), K10 PICKUP, K20 PICKUP

1986-69

GMC

K15/K1500 PICKUP, K25/K2500 PICKUP

UMT503

1988-81

CHEVROLET

K10 PICKUP, K1500 PICKUP, K20 PICKUP, K2500 PICKUP, V10

PICKUP, V10 SUBURBAN, V20 PICKUP, V20 SUBURBAN, V30 PICKUP

1988-81

GMC

K15/K1500 PICKUP, K1500 PICKUP, K25/K2500 PICKUP, K2500

PICKUP, V1500 PICKUP, V1500 SUBURBAN, V2500 PICKUP, V2500

SUBURBAN

UMT504

1988-81

CHEVROLET

K10 PICKUP, K1500 PICKUP, K20 PICKUP, K20 SUBURBAN, K2500

PICKUP, V10 PICKUP, V10 SUBURBAN, V20 PICKUP, V20 SUBURBAN

1988-81

GMC

K15/K1500 PICKUP, K1500 PICKUP, K25/K2500 PICKUP, K2500

PICKUP, V1500 PICKUP, V1500 SUBURBAN, V2500 PICKUP, V2500

SUBURBAN

UMT505-1

1990-88

CHEVROLET

K3500 PICKUP

1990-85

GMC

K3500 PICKUP

UMT505-2

1990-88

CHEVROLET

K3500 PICKUP

1990-85

GMC

K3500 PICKUP

UMT505-2A

1986

CHEVROLET

K30 PICKUP

UMT505-3

1990-85

CHEVROLET

K10 PICKUP, K1500 PICKUP, K20 PICKUP, K2500 PICKUP

1990-85

GMC

K15/K1500 PICKUP, K15/K1500 SUBURBAN, K1500 PICKUP,

K25/K2500 PICKUP, K25/K2500 SUBURBAN, K2500 PICKUP

UMT505-4

1990-85

CHEVROLET

K10 PICKUP, K1500 PICKUP, K20 PICKUP, K2500 PICKUP

1990-85

GMC

K15/K1500 PICKUP, K15/K1500 SUBURBAN, K1500 PICKUP,

K25/K2500 PICKUP, K25/K2500 SUBURBAN, K2500 PICKUP

UMT505-5

1986

CHEVROLET

K30 PICKUP

1986

GMC

K35/K3500 PICKUP

UMT506-1

1981-69

CHEVROLET

K10 PICKUP, K20 PICKUP

1981-69

GMC

K15/K1500 PICKUP, K25/K2500 PICKUP

UMT506-2

1981-69

CHEVROLET

K10 PICKUP, K20 PICKUP

1981-69

GMC

K15/K1500 PICKUP, K25/K2500 PICKUP

UMT507-1

1986-69

CHEVROLET

K10 PICKUP, K20 PICKUP

1986-69

GMC

K15/K1500 PICKUP, K25/K2500 PICKUP

UMT600-1

1987-84

TOYOTA

4RUNNER, PICKUP

UMT600-2

1988-85

TOYOTA

4RUNNER, PICKUP

UMT600-3

1987-84

TOYOTA

4RUNNER, PICKUP

UMT601

1997-86

TOYOTA

4RUNNER, PICKUP, T100, TACOMA

Buyer's Guide - Transfer Cases And Shift Motors

Part No.

Year

Make

Model

UMT314-11M

2007-05

DODGE

DAKOTA

2007-05

MITSUBISHI

RAIDER

UMT314-2

2002-98

DODGE

RAM 2500 PICKUP

UMT314-3

1997-96

DODGE

RAM 2500 PICKUP

UMT314-4

2002-98

DODGE

RAM 2500 PICKUP

UMT314-5

1997-94

DODGE

RAM 2500 PICKUP

UMT314-6

2002-98

DODGE

RAM 2500 PICKUP

UMT314-7

2002-98

DODGE

RAM 2500 PICKUP

UMT314-8

2002-01

DODGE

DAKOTA, DURANGO

UMT314-8M

2002-01

DODGE

DAKOTA, DURANGO

UMT314-9

2001-98

DODGE

RAM 2500 PICKUP, RAM 3500 PICKUP

UMT315-1

2000-98

DODGE

DAKOTA, DURANGO

UMT315-2

2000

DODGE

DURANGO

UMT315-3

1997-95

AM GENERAL

H1 HUMMER

UMT315-4

1999-98

AM GENERAL

H1 HUMMER

UMT315-5

2005-03

AM GENERAL

H2 HUMMER

UMT315-5M

2005-03

AM GENERAL

H2 HUMMER

UMT315-6

2007-06

AM GENERAL

H3 HUMMER

UMT315-6M

2007-06

AM GENERAL

H3 HUMMER

UMT315-7

2007-06

AM GENERAL

H3 HUMMER

UMT315-7M

2007-06

AM GENERAL

H3 HUMMER

UMT316-1M

2005-04

DODGE

DURANGO

UMT317-1

2005-02

DODGE

RAM 1500 PICKUP

UMT317-1M

2005-02

DODGE

RAM 1500 PICKUP

UMT317-2

2005-04

DODGE

RAM 1500 PICKUP

UMT317-2M

2005-04

DODGE

RAM 1500 PICKUP

UMT317-3

2004

DODGE

DURANGO

UMT317-3M

2004

DODGE

DURANGO

UMT317-3M1

2005

DODGE

DURANGO

UMT318

2008-06

DODGE

RAM 1500 PICKUP

UMT318M

2008-06

DODGE

RAM 1500 PICKUP

UMT401-1

1979-77

FORD

F-100 PICKUP, F-250 PICKUP / F-250 SUPER DUTY PICKUP, F-350

PICKUP / F-350 SUPER DUTY PICKUP

UMT402

1986-80

FORD

F-150 PICKUP / SUPER CREW, F-250 PICKUP / F-250 SUPER DUTY

PICKUP, F-350 PICKUP / F-350 SUPER DUTY PICKUP

UMT403

1986-80

FORD

BRONCO

UMT404

1991-88

FORD

F-150 PICKUP / SUPER CREW, F-250 PICKUP / F-250 SUPER DUTY

PICKUP

UMT405-1

1989-82

FORD

BRONCO, F-150 PICKUP / SUPER CREW, F-250 PICKUP / F-250 SUPER

DUTY PICKUP

UMT406-1

1989-83

FORD

BRONCO II, RANGER

UMT406-2

1990-83

FORD

BRONCO II, RANGER

UMT407-1

1989-87

FORD

BRONCO II, RANGER

UMT407-2

1989-87

FORD

BRONCO II, RANGER

UMT407-2M

1989-87

FORD

BRONCO II, RANGER

UMT408

1990-86

FORD

BRONCO II, RANGER

UMT408M

1990-86

FORD

BRONCO II, RANGER

UMT409

1995-90

FORD

EXPLORER, RANGER

1998-95

MAZDA

B2300, B3000, B4000

UMT410

1995-90

FORD

BRONCO II, EXPLORER, RANGER

1994-91

MAZDA

B2300, B3000, B4000, NAVAJO

UMT410M

1995-90

FORD

BRONCO II, EXPLORER, RANGER

1994-91

MAZDA

B2300, B3000, B4000, NAVAJO

UMT411-1

1989-87

FORD

BRONCO

UMT411-2

1989-87

FORD

BRONCO

UMT412-1

1996-89

FORD

BRONCO

UMT412-2

1989-87

FORD

BRONCO

UMT413

1996-89

FORD

BRONCO

UMT413M

1996-89

FORD

BRONCO

UMT414

1989-87

FORD

BRONCO

UMT414M

1989-87

FORD

BRONCO

UMT415-1

1997-89

FORD

F-150 PICKUP / SUPER CREW, F-250 PICKUP / F-250 SUPER DUTY

PICKUP

UMT415-2

1989-87

FORD

F-150 PICKUP / SUPER CREW, F-250 PICKUP / F-250 SUPER DUTY

PICKUP

UMT415-3

1999

FORD

E SUPER DUTY

UMT416-1

1997-89

FORD

F-250 PICKUP / F-250 SUPER DUTY PICKUP, F-350 PICKUP / F-350

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